Troubleshooting Motherboards

If momma ain’t happy, no one’s happy. That old joke is just as true for computers as it is for people, at least where the computer’s motherboard is involved. The motherboard is the large circuit board that every other computer component connects to, and it serves as the sole communications conduit between those devices. When the memory banks need some data from the hard drive, when a video game needs information from the video card, a key is pressed, the mouse is moved, or any other action is performed by any piece of hardware, the motherboard routes the output to the appropriate input. This universal role means that when something goes wrong with the computer, it could be a bad piece of connected hardware, or it could be a malfunctioning motherboard.

The motherboard is hard to miss when you open the computer’s case. It holds the expansion cards, the memory modules and the processor, and also has connections for the cables coming from your hard drive, CD or DVD drive, and other components. Check to see that all of the expansion cards and memory modules are fully seated in their respective slots and that all locking clips or other restraining devices are completely closed. Cards and memory modules are not properly seated if a large portion of the metal contacts on the bottom of the unit are visible above the motherboard slot, or if metal contacts at one end stick up more than those at the other end, indicating that the unit is seated crooked in the slot. Look closely at the metal contacts on expansion and memory slots for signs of corrosion. Also, look for corrosion and signs of bulging on all of the barrel-shaped capacitors on the motherboard, as these types of damage indicate the need for a motherboard replacement.

If any part of the motherboard is cracked, scratched, or has a soldered-on component that has broken loose, a complete replacement is also in order. Finally, make sure the ends of all cables are pressed completely into their respective slots. Moving internal cords and cables out of the way to make room when removing or adding components can sometimes pull cables loose, causing the hardware on the other end of that cable to malfunction.

The best place to find out the exact motherboard your computer uses is to look in the documentation that came with the system, but there are a number of free tools that provide even more information than the manual does. One of the best tools is System Information For Windows (free; www.gtopala.com). Download the latest version, double-click the file, and click the Motherboard entry in the Hardware section. The most important information you’ll need when troubleshooting is the model and SMBus type. It is highly recommended that you visit the computer or motherboard manufacturer’s Web site every few months to download and install the latest motherboard driver software, and you’ll need to know the exact model of the motherboard to obtain the right software to perform this upgrade.

Keeping the driver up to- date helps eliminate bugs in your system, improves hardware compatibility, and may even boost your computer’s overall performance. Motherboard problems are notoriously difficult to troubleshoot because many of the problems experienced with them are also associated with particular hardware devices. For example, motherboard problems can cause system lockups, but trouble with memory, video cards, and power supplies can also freeze the computer. If the computer refuses to turn on, it may be a motherboard issue, but it is more likely to be a problem with the hard drive or with Windows. Damage to the motherboard can cause hardware malfunctions, and improper motherboard settings can cause hardware incompatibilities, but faulty hardware generally is to blame. Despite their complexity, motherboards are pretty reliable if the drivers are up-to-date, and you should always troubleshoot other hardware before focusing your attention on the motherboard. Motherboards are very susceptible to damage from static electricity so be sure to touch a grounded piece of metal before you start poking around. Better still, get a grounded wrist strap, which should be available at nearly every computer store, and always wear it while working inside the computer’s case.

Problem: Nothing happens when I press the power button.
Solution: In rare cases, the power button itself breaks, so open the case and inspect the button for damage before trying anything else. If that isn’t the cause, then the motherboard may be fried due to electrical damage, but this problem most often happens after you install a hardware component and accidentally unseat the motherboard’s internal power plug from its socket. The size and shape of this socket (and sometimes there are two separate sockets) varies depending on the type and age of your motherboard, but the documentation that came with your computer should let you know where to look. You are looking for the power supply’s ATX (Advanced Technology Extended) plug, which has either 20 or 24 pins, and the ATX socket, which has an equal number of holes to accommodate the power pins. Some motherboards that have 20-pin ATX sockets also have a 4-pin ATX socket located elsewhere on the board, and both of these must be powered by separate cables for the motherboard to function. All you need to do is make sure the power plugs are fully seated in the sockets and the computer should boot.

Problem: When I press the power button, nothing appears on the monitor and the computer begins to beep.
Solution: Those beeps you hear are diagnostic codes that indicate the motherboard has detected some serious trouble. The beeping patterns and their meanings differ depending on the type of motherboard you have, so you’ll need to refer to the motherboard’s documentation or contact the manufacturer to find out the specifics.

Problem: When I press the power button, the computer seems to boot (the fans run properly, for example) but nothing appears on the monitor.
Solution: This indicates a problem with the video card, the monitor, or the motherboard’s integrated video or video expansion card slot. Check the cable between the video output and the monitor, make sure the monitor is turned on and set to the appropriate input, and reboot the computer. If there is still no video, open the case to make sure your add-in video card (if you have one) is seated properly and secured into place. If that’s not the problem, remove the video card according to the instructions it came with, connect the monitor to the motherboard’s integrated video output (if your motherboard has an integrated video output not all do), making sure to enable the appropriate BIOS (Basic Input/Output System) setting as detailed in the computer’s manual, and see if that works. If your system uses the motherboard’s integrated video rather than a separate video card, install a video card in the motherboard’s video expansion slot and change the BIOS setting to bypass the integrated video hardware. If none of those options work, you may need to replace your system’s motherboard. You can learn more about tweaking a BIOS in “Basic Troubleshooting: BIOSes” at www.smartcomputing .com/rs1101/BIOS.

Problem: I just installed a new video card or sound card but the new one isn’t detected.
Solution: Many motherboards have integrated sound and video hardware, and the problem in this scenario is that the motherboard isn’t switching audio or video responsibilities over to the new hardware device. To force your motherboard to relinquish control to the new add-in card, you must disable the integrated audio or video hardware using the motherboard’s BIOS settings. This procedure differs from motherboard to motherboard so you’ll need to consult the computer’s manual.

Problem: I have to install a new hardware component or remove an old one, but the force needed to insert or remove it seems excessive, and I’m afraid I’ll crack the board.
Solution: No component should cause the motherboard to flex when it is inserted or removed, let alone cause enough force to threaten cracking the board. If this problem arises when inserting memory modules, check the edges of the memory slot to make sure any locking clips are completely opened. Most memory module clips are designed to lock into place automatically when the module is fully seated in the slot, but you may need to manually push each clip into its completely locked position. Another common problem when inserting memory modules is that some are designed to be pressed straight down into the slot while others are designed to be inserted at a slight angle and then swung into a vertical position, where they lock into place. Look at the instructions that came with the modules or the documentation that came with the motherboard to see which insertion method your memory slots require. When inserting expansion cards, particularly video cards, look for locking clips that must be opened before the card is inserted or held open as the card is inserted. Most modern motherboards have video card slots with locking mechanisms that must be manually held open when a card is removed, so look for one before accidentally applying excessive force when you remove the card. Never rock an expansion card or memory module back and forth to get it into place or you risk damaging the metal contacts, and never put pressure on the side of the card or the memory module or you’ll risk breaking off the delicate plastic slot. Don’t touch any metal contacts on the motherboard or the hardware, and be extremely careful when screwing or unscrewing expansion cards into place, because if the screwdriver slips it can scratch and ruin the motherboard.

Problem: I just installed a new hardware component that requires a power connection, and now the PC won’t boot or reboots itself at random times.
Solution: Inexpensive computers often come with very basic power supplies that can’t provide enough electricity to accommodate the fastest video cards, multiple hard drives, or other power-hungry components. Unfortunately the total wattage ratings most power supply manufacturers apply to their products overstate the amount of electricity they can consistently output, so even if you add up all of the wattage used by your components and it comes in under the stated output of the power supply, these types of problems can still happen. First you should remove the newlyadded hardware and see if the computer runs in its original configuration. If it does, you’ll likely need to upgrade to a new power supply or replace the new component with something that uses less wattage. Be sure to check carefully with the manufacturer before ordering a new power supply because some motherboards, like those found in a lot of Dell systems, use proprietary connections that prevent the installation of a third-party power supply.

Problem: I installed more memory but Windows doesn’t recognize it.
Solution: Bad memory modules aren’t very common, but test the computer with a different module if possible to see if the one you originally installed was a dud. The most common cause of this problem is that some motherboards require that memory modules be installed in pairs. Most RIMM memory modules, for example, must be installed in pairs that match exactly in speed and capacity or they won’t work. Newer systems that support dual-channel DDR SDRAM (Double Data Rate Synchronous Dynamic Random Access Memory) modules will work when the memory modules are installed singly, but performance is enhanced (sometimes dramatically) if you install matched pairs of RAM modules instead (i.e. you get better performance using two 512MB modules than from using a single 1GB module, even though the overall memory capacity remains the same). Check the manual carefully when installing memory to make sure you place the modules in the correct slots.

Problem: The computer never keeps track of time properly.
Solution: Motherboards have a CMOS (complementary metal-oxide semiconductor) memory area that is used to store the time, date, and essential data the PC used when starting up. The CMOS must be constantly powered to retain data, even when the PC is turned off or unplugged, so it is attached to a small battery. Open the case, find the small silver battery on the motherboard, and remove it carefully. Take it to a battery or electronics store to find an exact replacement, put the new one in, and access the BIOS or CMOS setup screen to make any necessary changes to the BIOS, as those settings are lost when the battery is removed. If you don’t see a silver battery, the motherboard may use a soldered- on battery, in which case you’ll need to have it professionally replaced or purchase a new motherboard.

Troubleshooting Hard Drives

Your PC’s hard drive affects nearly everything your computer does. It stores your operating system, your applications, your games, and your personal files. If it “forgets” a few bytes of data, you’ll get errors, hangs, and possibly a loss of any documents or photos you haven’t backed up yet. In addition, your PC hits your hard drive for data much more often than the slower CD/DVD drive or Internet connection. In a very real sense, then, your hard drive is your computer’s main bottleneck, because it’s the slowest data-moving device your system commonly accesses. If your hard drive slows down, your entire computer becomes less responsive and fun to use. And if it breaks, nothing else works. This article delves into basic troubleshooting for these mass storage devices. We’ll get into solutions for some common maladies for single (non- RAID [redundant array of independent disks]) hard drives, as well as a few relatively uncommon ones. Drive(rs) License Or Other Form Of ID Before you start to research a potential problem, jot down the model numbers of the parts involved, such as the hard drive and controller chip or card. You may be able to ID all the parts involved without cracking open your computer case. If your PC uses a controller card rather than a controller built onto the motherboard to run your hard drive, however, you may need to open the case to check the card’s brand and model number. In the Device Manager (right-click My Computer, choose Properties, and click the Hardware tab), look under Disk Drives for your hard drive’s model number, such as HTS 548040M9AT00. A Google search of that number will likely lead you to the drive manufacturer’s site and an ID of the drive’s advertised name, such as Travelstar 5K80.

Consumer desktop hard drives come with either IDE (Integrated Drive Electronics, also called ATA [Advanced Technology Attachment], PATA [Parallel ATA], EIDE [Enhanced IDE], or DMA [direct memory access]) or SATA (Serial ATA) interfaces. An IDE drive is easy to spot because it uses a wide ribbon cable instead of SATA’s skinny cables. In the Device Manager, look under IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers for your IDE or SATA controller chip’s name. If an expansion card handles data flow to your hard drive (the drive’s data cable connects to a card instead of the motherboard), it might be listed under SCSI And RAID Controllers instead.

Universal Troubleshooting Steps When you suspect your hard drive is having problems, before you do anything else, open your computer’s case and make sure that its power and data cables (both ends) are snugly attached. Back up your personal data to another hard drive, a DVD, or a CD. Try not to replace an earlier backup if that’s your only copy of the data, as you don’t want to overwrite a good backup with possibly corrupted files. Next, update your controller’s drivers in case there’s a later bug fix you need. If you’ve combined hard drives in a RAID, make sure you download and install a RAID-compatible driver. Scan for errors. In Windows Explorer (right-click Start and choose Explore), right-click a partition on your hard drive, such as C:. Select Properties, the Tools tab, and Check Now under Error-Checking. Click both options’ checkboxes to enable a longer, more thorough scan of your drive, including every bit of its disk surfaces. Finally, click Start. A scan of your C: drive may require a reboot. If the scan turns up errors on your drive, or if Windows runs erratically or not at all, restart your PC and enter the BIOS (Basic Input/Output System) setup, usually by pressing the DELETE or ESC key during the boot process. Enable SMART (Self- Monitoring Analysis and Reporting Technology) monitoring, if your hard drive supports it. This setting can be in several places in the BIOS, but it’s usually in menus having to do with the hard drive, SATA, and/or IDE settings. Save your changes and exit.

Next, use a different computer to download Seagate’s SeaTools (www .seagate.com/support/seatools) and install it on a bootable CD-R or floppy diskettes. Boot your problem PC with SeaTools in the CD or floppy drive. Use a PS/2 (Personal System/2) mouse instead of a USB one to avoid having to navigate SeaTools with the TAB key, the Spacebar, the arrow keys, and combinations of ALT + underlined letter keys, such as ALT-N for Next. After the utility loads, run a full scan of the suspect hard drive. Click View Report to read the results, should a yellow or red circle icon indicate trouble. If your drive has some bad sectors, you’ve lost the files stored on them. SeaTools will offer to overwrite the bad sectors, which will erase the data stored on them but will also prompt the hard drive to map out the defective areas so that they’re never used again. Allow the overwrite, and then run another full scan afterward. When your drive has a clean bill of health, eject the Sea Tools CD or diskette and reboot.

Drives are disposable. Most drives develop a few bad sectors over time. This isn’t a big deal. On the other hand, if your drive accumulates more bad sectors every time you run a scan, it’s probably gradually failing. If so, replace the drive. Like power supplies and RAM modules, hard drives are replaceable, not fixable, commodities. If your drive gets wiggy on you, it’s time to buy a new one. Hard Problems If error and surface scans come up clean, your hard drive probably works fine. Of course, some of the data stored on it could be at fault. Rolling your PC back to an earlier time with System Restore or uninstalling and reinstalling a troublesome application may help. If not, read on for some possible fixes for various problems. Many hard drive maladies and remedies overlap, so it’s worthwhile to try everything listed here.

Problem: Your computer seems to run slower over time.
Solution: After checking for errors, run Disk Cleanup (in My Computer, right-click C: or another drive letter, then choose Properties and Disk Cleanup) to free up storage space. Make sure there’s at least 1GB of unused space on the drive, or Windows won’t run as fast as it should. After Disk Cleanup, defragment your drive so that it stores data in a more orderly manner. In Windows XP, right-click the drive letter, choose Properties, and click the Tools tab and Defragment Now. The nice thing about third-party programs such as Diskeeper (www.diskeeper.com) or Raxco PerfectDisk (www.raxco.com) is that most can move the apps you use most to areas of the hard drive that take less time to access. This can shave a second or two off the time it takes to launch an app. Watch out, though on rare occasions, defragging the partition with the currently running OS (operating system) on it, such as the C: drive, can cause problems such as file system errors.

Problem: Your hard drive is suddenly much slower.
Solution: To check an IDE hard drive, launch the Device Manager. Under IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers, right-click Primary IDE Channel (this may be called Parallel ATA Controller on some motherboards, such as those using nForce chipsets). Next, choose Properties and click the Advanced Settings tab (or the Primary Channel or Secondary Channel tabs, if present). Make sure that your hard drive’s Transfer Mode is some variation on Ultra DMA. You may first need to set the Transfer Mode to DMA If Available or uncheck the Let BIOS Select Transfer Mode box, depending on the settings available to you. SATA drives can run slightly slower without certain settings enabled, too. Under IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers in the Device Manager, right-click a SATA Controller entry and choose Properties. In its Advanced Settings, Primary Channel, or Secondary Channel tabs, as applicable, make sure that read and write caching are enabled, as well as Command Queueing.

Problem: Your computer suddenly doesn’t recognize a drive previously in use.
Solution: If you’ve recently worked inside your computer, you might have inadvertently bumped a data cable loose. It’s very easy to nudge a SATA data cable out of place, so check that these are snug. In one isolated case, we once found a drive’s SATA power connector to be unreliable. If your SATA hard drive has both SATA and Molex (4-pin) power connectors, unhook the former and connect the latter. You should never attach both types of power hookups to a drive, however.

Problem: Your computer doesn’t recognize a new hard drive you’ve just added.
Solution: For an IDE drive, verify that you’ve moved its plastic jumper near the power and data ports to the correct pins. Set the drive on the end connector of the data cable to Master (a boot drive may work best as the Master device on the Primary Channel), and any other hard drive or CD/DVD drive on the middle data cable connector to the Slave setting. Don’t use the Cable Select jumper setting unless it’s necessary to solve a drive problem. However, if you’ve just built an external drive out of a spare hard drive and an enclosure kit, the kit manufacturer might recommend Cable Select for best results. You may also need to update your motherboard’s BIOS to the latest version. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. Often, installing a SATA or ATA/ 133 controller card solves a lot of compatibility issues, especially on an older motherboard. After you install the controller card according to its instructions, connect the hard drive’s data cable to the card instead of the motherboard. To get a recent, high-capacity IDE hard drive to work on an older motherboard without a card, try limiting the drive’s capacity to 137GB with a jumper setting, if present. If it works after changing the jumper setting, install a controller card that circumvents the motherboard’s 137GB limitation. For a 3Gbps (gigabits per second). SATA hard drive, you might need to set a jumper on it to change it to 1.5Gbps (150MBps [megabits per second]) mode to get an older controller to recognize it. This will limit the drive’s speed negligibly, if at all, but it may solve a compatibility issue with a 1.5Gbps controller.

Problem: Your PC doesn’t power on or occasionally crashes after you add a hard drive.
Solution: If your power supply unit doesn’t have enough amperage on the 12V and 5V rails to fire up your PC with the addition of a new drive, consider removing less important devices or upgrading your PSU (power supply unit). Flip forward to “Basic Troubleshooting: Power Supplies” in this issue for some tips.

Problem: After a hard drive is disconnected from and then reconnected to your PC, the computer won’t load the OS and reports that there’s no boot device.
Solution: When some BIOSes detect that a hard drive is removed, they automatically change the devices in the boot priority list. However, most of these BIOSes don’t reverse the changes when the missing device is reattached. During your PC’s POST (power on self test) when you first turn it on, press DELETE or the indicated key to enter your BIOS setup. Find the boot priority device list, adjust it, and save your changes when you exit. If you have multiple hard drives, you may need to choose which drive is the boot device in a separate setting.

Problem: A drive is noisy.
Solution: If it’s a new noise, especially a loud or unusual one, the hard drive could be failing. Make sure it’s not just a fan or an imbalanced disc in your DVD drive that’s whining or howling. If your hard drive is only noisy during periods of heavy seek activity, check to see whether the manufacturer offers a download that can change your drive from its performance mode to a quieter mode with acoustically optimized seeks. The drive will act slightly slower after the change, but it shouldn’t be as loud. Certain drives such as the Maxtor D740X with standard bearings are audible even when idle. Most current drives use fluid dynamic bearings, which help eliminate the whine that older drives can emit. You can replace the drive with a quieter model, such as a Seagate drive. Look for a maximum dB (decibel) rating in the 28dB or lower range for near silent operation.

Troubleshooting Graphics Cards

Your graphics card, or graphics adapter, is the component of your PC responsible for processing everything you see on the computer’s display, including your operating system’s GUI (graphical user interface), software applications, videos, still images, and text. Depending on your computer, your graphics adapter is either a standalone graphics card or an integrated chip built into the motherboard. For instance, most desktop PCs feature graphics cards plugged into a PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect), AGP (Accelerated Graphics Port), or PCI Express slot on your computer’s motherboard. On the other hand, notebooks and small form factor systems commonly use integrated graphics adapters. Identify Your Adapter If you suspect that your graphics adapter is causing problems with your system, then a useful first step is to verify if your computer can recognize it. Identifying your graphics adapter is also useful for finding the graphics card’s most up-to-date driver. If you can access your Windows Desktop, click Start, right-click My Computer, and click Manage. Click Device Manager from the left pane of the Computer Management window, click the plus (+) sign beside Display Adapters to expand it, and then double-click the graphics adapter installed on your system. Take note of the model and manufacturer as described on the General tab. If you don’t see the Display Adapters option and instead see a yellow exclamation mark in front of Video Controller, then your computer can’t recognize your graphics card. To verify this, right-click anywhere on your Desktop, click Properties, and then click the Settings tab. If you see Default Monitor under the Display heading, then your computer is using a generic display driver rather than one designed for your graphics hardware. See the Resolve Driver Conflicts section below for information on downloading and installing an updated driver.

You may not be able to view your Desktop if your graphics adapter is malfunctioning. In these instances, the documentation that came with your computer or standalone graphics card is your best source of information about the model and manufacturer. If your graphics adapter is an integrated chip, then check the documentation for your motherboard or computer or check the PC manufacturer’s Web site. If you don’t have the original documentation and still don’t know the model and manufacturer of your graphics card, then your last resort may be to physically open the case, remove the card from your system, and inspect it for a sticker that identifies it. To locate your standalone graphics card with your case open, find the VGA (Video Graphics Array) or DVI (Digital Visual Interface) port that connects to your monitor cable. This port is located on the back of the standalone graphics card. For more details about removing your graphics card, refer to the Inspect Your Connections solution in the first problem. Fix Your Graphics If you notice problems with anything you see on your display, then you’ll probably need to troubleshoot your graphics adapter. To eliminate the possibility that your monitor is the source of the problem, however, refer to “Basic Troubleshooting: Screens & Monitors”. The following are a series of common graphics card-related problems and possible solutions. If you don’t see your particular problem listed below, download the latest graphics card driver from the manufacturer’s Web site, uninstall the existing driver, restart the computer, and then install the new driver. For more details, see the Resolve Driver Conflicts solution later in this article.

Problem: The PC seems to boot, but the display is blank.
Solution 1: Check your display. Make sure your monitor is plugged into a working power outlet, connected to the appropriate VGA or DVI port on the graphics card or motherboard, and powered on. Also, check the VGA or DVI cable connectors for bent pins that may interfere with your video signal.

Solution 2: Inspect your connections. Check to make sure the graphics card is fully inserted into the motherboard’s PCI, AGP, or PCIE slot. To check and reseat a standalone graphics card, start by shutting the computer down, unplugging it, unplugging the monitor cable, and removing the PC’s side panel. Touch a grounded piece of metal to dissipate static electricity before touching any internal component. Unless you have a tool-free case, use a screwdriver to remove the screw that secures the card bracket to the case’s rear panel. If your graphics card requires one or two power connectors, disconnect them before removing the card from the slot. Next, examine the slot that the graphics card is plugged into. AGP and PCI-E ports typically have some form of locking mechanism that holds the card in place. Unlock the card by sliding, pushing, or pulling the latch. On some motherboards, you’ll need to gently bend a tab while pulling the card out of the slot. Slowly and carefully pull the card straight out of the slot and examine it for damage or other obvious problems. Remove dust from the card and slot with a clean, dry cloth and reinstall the graphics card, making sure to insert the card fully into its slot. Plug in all the power connectors that you unplugged and restart the computer.

Problem: Your system crashes intermittently or when running graphics-intensive applications.
Solution 1: Check your card’s cooling. Your graphics card produces a lot of heat under normal conditions. That heat output can dramatically increase when running 3D games and other graphically demanding applications. Some computers feature built-in sensors that let you monitor your case temperatures. If applicable, consult your documentation for information about your PC’s temperature monitoring capabilities. Video cards all have different recommended operating temperatures, so consult your computer or video card documentation for the recommended ranges. To resolve the problem, remove the side panel from your case and examine the graphics card for dust buildup. Use a dry cloth or canned air to remove the dust from your fans, vents, and components. Start the PC again to make sure your case fans and graphics card fan are working properly.

Solution 2: Check your power supply. If the video card has one or more power connectors, make sure they are plugged into the power supply. Intermittent restarts can also be the result of an overtaxed power supply. Consult the documentation that came with your computer or power supply to determine its wattage capabilities and then make sure your graphics card doesn’t push your system over that limit. For more information on troubleshooting a power supply, refer to “Basic Troubleshooting: Power Supplies”.

Problem: Your system intermittently freezes, reboots, or displays poor graphics performance.
Solution 1: Verify compatibility. Before purchasing any new component, you should always make sure that it will work with your existing hardware and software. Even if you’ve installed a PCI, AGP, or PCI-E graphics card into the appropriate slot types in your PC, you may still encounter problems. For instance, an AGP 1.0-compatible motherboard can typically run an AGP 8X-compatible graphics card, but it will only run at slower 1X or 2X AGP speeds, resulting in poor graphics performance. Also, newer motherboards may have multiple slots that a PCI-E graphics card will fit into, but these slots may operate at different speeds. You’ll typically want to install a PCI-E graphics card in the fastest slot available. You may need to consult your documentation or a manufacturer’s Web site for these details.

Solution 2: Resolve driver conflicts. Make sure you uninstall the old graphics card driver and configuration software before installing a new graphics card or the latest graphics driver for your existing card. Even if you already installed the new card or driver without uninstalling the old drivers, it’s best to download the latest driver for your new graphics card from the manufacturer’s Web site (if you haven’t already done so), uninstall the existing driver, and then reinstall the latest driver. Both Nvidia (www.nvidia .com) and ATI (ati.amd.com) offer unified drivers that work for all graphics card models of the same series, such as GeForce and Radeon.

If you plan to play games, download the latest version of DirectX at www.microsoft.com/windows/di rectx/default.mspx before uninstalling the old graphics driver. Save the latest driver and DirectX executable files to your Desktop and then uninstall the old graphics card driver and configuration software. Installing the latest driver can also resolve graphics issues that sometimes appear after installing Windows XP’s Service Pack 2. To uninstall the old driver and configuration software, use the Add Or Remove Programs utility. In WinXP, click Start, Control Panel, and then click (double-click in Classic View) Add Or Remove Programs. If you’re using Windows 98/2000, click Start, Settings, and Control Panel and then double-click the Add Or Remove Programs icon. Scan the Currently Installed Programs list for the graphics card’s manufacturer and then click the Remove or Change/ Remove button on all items that pertain to the graphics card. Now you can double-click the new driver’s executable file to install it. If applicable, install the graphics card configuration software and DirectX.

Solution 3: Install new motherboard chipset drivers. The chipset on the motherboard is responsible for communications between the CPU and graphics card slot. For this reason, you may be able to resolve some graphics card problems by installing the latest version of your motherboard chipset’s driver. To determine your chipset driver, click the Start button, right-click My Computer, click Manage, select Device Manager from the left pane of the Computer Management Window, and then click the plus (+) sign in front of System Devices. Your chipset should appear as multiple entries in this list. For instance, if you see “Intel® 955X Processor to I/O Controller – 2774,” then your chipset is the Intel 955X Express. Visit the motherboard or computer manufacturer’s Web site to download the driver. Install it and restart your computer.

Solution 4: Try another graphics card. If you have access to a spare graphics card, you can eliminate the possibility that another aspect of your system is causing the problem by swapping the problematic card with the spare. Shut the computer down, dissipate static electricity by touching a metal portion of the case, and then unplug it. Next, remove the monitor cable from the back of the graphics card, remove the existing graphics card (making sure to open the locking mechanism on the slot), insert the other graphics card, and lock it in place. Plug in any necessary power cables, close the case, connect the monitor, and restart the computer. Once Windows loads, install the appropriate driver and reboot. If everything goes smoothly, you can assume that your existing card is the cause of the problem. If the same glitch occurs, you may need to troubleshoot another aspect of the system. If the problems started after you installed a new graphics card, try the old card again to eliminate the possibility that the new card is damaged. Uninstall the new card’s drivers, shut the system down, remove the new card, insert the old card, restart the system, and reinstall the old card’s driver. If the problem is resolved after you reinstall the old card’s driver, and you have eliminated the possibility that there is a hardware or software conflict, then you can assume that the new card is faulty or has been damaged.

Solution 5: Reset the BIOS to defaults. Often, improper settings in the BIOS (Basic Input/Output System) utility can wreak havoc on your system. For more specific information on navigating the BIOS, see www.smartcom puting.com/rs1101/bios. Always exercise caution when changing the BIOS settings, as one wrong move can cause your computer to fail to boot. Restart your computer and enter the BIOS utility, commonly by pressing DELETE, ESC, F1, or F2. You may need to consult your computer or motherboard manual for which key to press. Press the function key that loads the default settings and then press the designated Save And Exit key, which typically appears somewhere on the BIOS screen. Your PC should load Windows after you exit the BIOS, and you can then find out whether resetting the BIOS fixed your problem.

Problem: The display flickers continuously.
Solution: Adjust the refresh rate. A low refresh rate can cause CRT (cathode-ray tube) monitors to flicker. To change the refresh rate, right-click anywhere on the Desktop, click Properties, and click the Settings tab. Click the Advanced button and the Monitor tab and then click the Hide Modes That This Monitor Cannot Display checkbox to select it. You may need to consult your monitor’s documentation or the manufacturer’s Web site to determine the refresh rates your monitor supports. Use the drop-down box to choose a higher supported refresh rate. A refresh rate of 75Hz or faster should prevent screen flicker. Click Apply, click OK, and close the Display Properties dialog box. I Can See Clearly Now Troubleshooting your graphics card can be frustrating because often you won’t see any error messages or on-screen prompts that might clue you in to the source of the problem. But you’re not flying blind. Anyone can resolve a vast majority of graphics adapter problems using the procedures listed above.

Troubleshooting CD/DVD Drives

CDs for a quarter, DVDs for a dollar. Talk about cheap storage for your data. With a DVD±RW or CD-RW drive and a disc-burning utility such as Roxio or Nero, you’re all set to make your own music, backup, and video discs. On the other hand, there’s plenty that can go wrong. Burning CDs and DVDs with an optical drive still isn’t as easy as copying files to a hard drive or USB memory key, although Windows Vista finally adds belated DVD writing support. There are many different kinds of CD/DVD errors, including media defects, disc incompatibilities, playback problems, drive errors, and software bugs. In this article, we’ll tell you about some universal troubleshooting steps that can fix the majority of these, or at least reveal the likely cause so you can try a new tack. We’ll also get into specific fixes for other problems. All Will Be Revealed Open your computer’s case and look at your optical drive’s label to find its brand and model number, such as the Lite-On SHM-165H6S. If this is a hassle, open the Device Manager by right-clicking the My Computer icon, choosing Properties. Then, click the Hardware tab and the Device Manager button. Next, click the plus sign (+) that’s beside DVD/CD-ROM Drives, and you should see your drive’s information, such as _NEC DVD_RW ND-3500AG for the NEC ND-3500AG burner. For some kinds of problems, you’ll need to find out your drive’s firmware version number, too. Download Nero InfoTool (www.cdspeed2000.com) and install it. Run it, and then choose your drive in the drop-down menu at the top. Info Tool 4.03 reported our ND-3500AG’s firmware version, 2.16, in the Drive tab’s upper-right corner.

Universal Troubleshooting Steps You can solve many optical drive problems with these simple tips. If you’re wondering whether your drive is going bad, download Sony’s free Drive Check diagnostic utility (sony .storagesupport.com/cdrw/diagnostics.htm) and run it. Reading errors are usually due to smudged, scratched, or defective discs. Clean a troublesome disc with a CD/DVD cleaning spray from a consumer electronics store. The water vapor from your breath can do in a pinch. Wipe the disc’s recorded surface in straight lines from the inner hole to the outside edge with a clean, soft cloth. Never rub a disc sideways or in circles. Any contact with a cloth leaves microscopic scratches on a disc, but scratches that run radially from the center of the disc outward usually won’t cause skips like ones that follow the spiral track of data around the disc. Occasionally run a special lens cleaning disc through your drive or disc player to remove dust from the laser lens. If all else fails, try reading the disc in a different drive. Writing errors may generate a warning in the burning software, or they may only show up later as skipping or stuttering audio and video or errors in burned data files. Defective CDs and DVDs aren’t uncommon, so try another disc. A different brand or type of media (such as a DVD-R instead of DVD+R) might be in order. Next, try writing at a slower speed, such as 1X for DVDs or 4X to 8X for CDs. Finally, try reading the help file in your burning software or the FAQs on the developer’s Web site.

Always store your discs in jewel cases or sleeves to avoid scratches and dirt. Never toss a bare disc on your desk or dashboard if there’s anything important on it. Finally, keep in mind that too much direct sunlight, excessive heat, and prolonged humidity can make any CD or DVD unplayable. Optical Irritations If the universal steps above don’t help you, perhaps the tip you need is listed below. Note that some solutions apply to more than one problem.

Problem: Recording doesn’t always work correctly with a particular burning utility. Solution: Check the software developer’s site for updates. The site might also have a forum or knowledgebase that could help you with error messages. Also, search for keywords such as the brands and types of your drive and the discs you’re using, such as Verbatim DVD+R 16X or Plextor PX-716. Next, check your software’s settings to find the cache or temp folder it uses to temporarily store files on the hard drive before burning them to disc. You should maintain unused space on that hard drive partition (such as C:) to give the cached data somewhere to go. Plan on at least 800MB of free space before you burn a CD, 5GB for a DVD, and at least 9GB if you’re writing a DL (double-layer) disc. Defragment the partition before you burn the disc to keep the hard drive from scattering the data and slowing down the process.

Problem: Recording doesn’t work correctly with a particular drive.
Solution: A firmware update may solve certain problems with your burner and/or expand its compatibility with various brands and speeds of media. If the drive manufacturer’s site lists a newer firmware version than the one InfoTool says your drive is using, consider downloading it and updating your drive (called flashing the firmware).

The drawback is that if the flashing session fails or is interrupted, your CD/DVD drive might be useless afterward. Hey, at least new drives are cheap. First, be certain that the firmware is for your specific drive model. Also, closely follow the instructions in the update’s Readme file or on the download page. For example, some LG drives require you to place them as the Master, and only, device on the IDE data cable during a flash update. Also, many firmware update utilities require you to turn off your antivirus, antispyware, and other security applications during the update process.

Problem: A DVD you’ve burned doesn’t play back in a consumer player. The video or menu may freeze after a few seconds, or it may generate an “unknown disc” error.
Solution: In general, the newer the player, the more formats and types of media it will support. Some players at the low end may sacrifice some compatibility for an inexpensive price, however. And some standalone recorders might require that you pay extra to use recordable media marked “for video” as a sort of pre-emptive tax on unauthorized copying.

The discs most likely to play back without problems in consumer players are DVD-R, DVD+R, and DVD+RW, in that order. DVD-RW wasn’t initially designed to be a video playback format, although some consumer recorders may support it. If you want to make DVD-Video discs with DVD+R/RW media, your drive might hold the key to better compatibility. Some DVD burners can change the book type of DVD+R/RW/DL discs, making them seem to be DVD-Rs or DVD-ROMs to players and drives. If your drive can do this, called bitsetting, you’ll see Book Type-related settings in recent versions of burning software. Set the Book Type to DVD-ROM or DVD-R, and your disc should stand a better chance of playback in more players.

Problem: Either an SVCD (Super Video CD) or VCD (Video CD) doesn’t play in a consumer DVD player or on a computer with DVD playback software, plays with video errors, or is only recognized as an MP3 audio file disc.
Solution: Some DVD players simply don’t support these types of discs. Others may play VCDs or SVCDs only if the discs were authored with certain settings, which the VCD/SVCD/DVD creation software may point out. The same goes for DVD playback software, although the developer may provide a patch or plug-in to enable this functionality. First, consult the DVD player’s documentation for VCD/SVCD support. If your DVD player allows firmware updates, as some DVD recorders do, try updating it. Update your DVD playback software if there’s a later version you can download. You can also try burning a new disc at a slower speed and/or using a different brand of CD-R. You might find that different burning software, even from the same developer, may make discs that are compatible with your player. For an Apex DVD player with a checkered history of disc compatibility, as an example, we created compatible SVCDs with Nero 7 Ultra Edition’s NeroVision Express, but not with Nero Express. Read up on your disc authoring software’s settings for VCDs and SVCDs in its help file and options, as well as the support section of the developer’s Web site. Try different settings related to disc compatibility. If all else fails, try options that make nonstandard discs.

Problem: A CD-RW or DVD±RW drive will not read prerecorded CD-ROMs faster than 40X, although the drive’s rated 48X or 52X.
Solution: This behavior is intentional in many drives. Because prerecorded CD-ROMs’ data layers are generally made of aluminum with pits stamped into it, some discs may be slightly out of balance and/or might have structural weaknesses. At rotation speeds above 40X, some might even fly apart, damaging the drive and possibly injuring someone in front of the drive. Plextor has even gone as far as to build tougher bezels that are designed to contain plastic shrapnel from disintegrating media. CD-R/RWs use a dye-based recording layer, and don’t seem to be as vulnerable to this phenomenon as CD-ROMs. However, improperly applied labels can throw any disc out of balance. Also, any cracks in a disc can come under stress at high rotational speeds, causing the disc to shatter.

You can force some 48X and 52X drives to temporarily bypass the 40X limitation by following the manufacturer’s directions. This usually involves holding down the drive’s eject button for a few seconds until the activity LED (light emitting diode) blinks and then inserting the CD-ROM you want to read at high speed. Plextor calls this feature Speed-Read; other manufacturers use different marketing terms, if they draw attention to this safety feature workaround at all. Most drives will revert to 40X max speed after you eject the disc. Note that most drives can only read an optical disc at the maximum rated speed near the outer edge. The edge of the disc is the last section to be recorded, so if a disc isn’t full, you’ll never see those 48X or 52X transfer rates from it. Therefore, you may not notice much of a speed difference during typical use, although you may shave some seconds off of a CD rip or software installation. Of course, if a $50 game CD-ROM does fly apart in your $35 drive, that’s $85 down the drain. In general, setting read speeds above 40X isn’t really worth the risk.

Problem: Pops and/or other noises when playing back a music CD you’ve burned.
Solution: The write speed may have been too fast in comparison to the data supplied by the original CD or hard drive. Try recording at a slower speed, especially if your burner is too old to have buffer underrun protection, and leave the computer alone until the new disc is finished. If you’re copying one CD to another on a computer, set the burning software to cache the music data on the hard drive before writing it to the blank disc. A hard drive will typically be faster than the optical drive reading the original CD, so it shouldn’t let the data stream dry up during a burn. Defragmenters the hard drive partition designated for this cache, and make sure there’s at least 800MB of free space on it. If these steps don’t help, try a different brand of CD-R. Verify that the drive’s data cable is connected securely and shows no visible damage. Make sure that the optical drive’s jumpers are set correctly, meaning that it’s the Master device if it’s on the end connector on the data cable or the Slave device if it’s on the middle connector. Also, check for updates to your burning software. Samsung adds that some CD recorders don’t write audio frame headers on music CDs, which can cause noises during playback.

Problem: Your drive theoretically supports a new type of media, but it won’t burn it at its top speed.
Solution: This is the type of problem that a firmware update might fix, as mentioned above. If there isn’t one available yet, try another brand of media.

Problem: Your brand new Blu-ray or HD DVD drive doesn’t read or write to CDs.
Solution: The first generation of BD and HD DVD drives don’t support CD media. Fortunately, recordable DVD drives do. Many cost less than $35 online, so if your computer has room, run a DVD burner alongside your blue laser unit.

Problem: Your car stereo can only play MP3s on a CD-R from one folder at a time, not from all the folders on the disc in one playlist.
Solution: Some car stereos and other CD players are MP3-compatible but nevertheless can’t handle folders very well. Many music lovers store each album in a separate folder on their hard drives, so it’s tempting, but not advisable, to create MP3 discs with the same folder structure. The best way to make an MP3 disc is to use Nero’s or Roxio’s suggested applications. You can also drag and drop files to a CD-R in Windows XP or Vista. If you do the latter, only transfer files to the disc, not the folders they’re in. Your goal is a disc with all of its songs in its root directory.

Problem: A drive doesn’t read or write discs properly, and may freeze the PC temporarily, when set to the Master or Slave jumper settings.
Solution: Some drives work best with their jumpers set to the CS (Cable Select) setting. One such drive was Sony’s DRU-820A with its initial firmware version. Shut off your PC. Move the DVD drive’s jumper to the CS setting, then reboot. If problems persist, turn off the PC and try a different data cable.

Problem: Other owners of the same drive report faster burning times and read rates.
Solution: Until recently, DVD and CD burners could get by with old 40- wire ATA-33 data cables because they weren’t capable of sending more than 33MBps. Today, some drives only work properly with 80-wire ATA- 66/100/133 cables, which actually still use the same 39- or 40-pin connectors as ATA-33 cables (the extra wires are for grounding). The rule of thumb is that when you install a new drive, use the cable that came with it. Don’t forget to check that your drive is running in DMA mode (see the “Your Hard Drive Is Much Slower” problem in “Basic Troubleshooting: Hard Drives”. Also, know that different media, firmware versions, and burning software versions will have an effect on how fast your drive writes discs, as will your overall system speed.

Problem: You’ve downloaded an ISO file, but you can’t seem to burn the disc image it contains onto a CD or DVD instead of the ISO itself.
Solution: When you start a project or compilation in your burning software, enable the option or setting to “Burn Image,” “Burn From Disc Image,” “Record Disc From Image,” or something similar.

Troubleshooting Audio Cards

The function of an audio card, or sound card, is pretty self-defining: It sends an audio signal out of (and may allow one into) your PC. In addition to analog signals, some sound cards send and receive digital audio through coaxial and/or optical jacks. Many sound cards also handle MIDI (Musical Instrument Digital Interface), a protocol for controlling and synchronizing electronic music gear and software. Although their function is the same, sound cards come in different forms. The most basic is a circuit board that plugs into a computer’s PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) slot. Because a PCI sound card’s faceplate has a limited amount of space, some manufacturers pack in more connectivity options than there’s room for on the faceplate by including a breakout cable, an octopus-like plug sprouting multiple audio inputs and outputs. At the other end of the design spectrum are external sound cards, which aren’t cards at all, but peripheral devices that route audio to and from the computer through a USB or FireWire cable. In between are hybrid designs that utilize a PCI card cabled to an external box, or a housing that fits into a drive bay, with various jacks and controls.

Product information. If you don’t know the make and model of your card say, it came installed, and you’ve never needed to identify it before you can find this information in Windows’ Device Manager. There’s more than one way to access the Device Manager, but the quickest is to right-click the My Computer icon and, from the pop-up menu, select Properties. Next, click the Hardware tab and the Device Manager button. Now click the plus (+) sign next to Sound, Video And Game Controllers to open its list and find the entry for your sound card. For further information, right-click the listing and select Properties from the menu. Working status. If your audio card is acting up, the symptoms will usually be obvious: no sound, poor sound, unexpected hardware behavior after installation, and so on. We’ll cover each of these and more, but if you suspect that your problem lies with your speakers, rather than your sound card, consult “Basic Troubleshooting: Speakers”

Problem: I’m not getting any sound at all . . . or I’m getting sound from some audio sources, but not others.

Solution 1: A problem this nebulous can stem from one of several causes, so first eliminate the things that would make you slap your forehead if you discovered them after an hour of serious effort. Software settings are a good place to start. Open the System Tray at the end of the Taskbar, click the Volume icon, and make sure the slider isn’t set to zero or the Mute box checked.

Solution 2: For a more thorough look at things, right-click the Volume icon and select Adjust Audio Properties. This opens the Sounds And Audio Devices Properties dialog. Under the Volume tab, click Advanced. Now you’ll see a Volume Control mixer. This includes sliders and mute boxes not only for the master volume, but also for components such as CD audio and the line input for an external device. Make sure these channels aren’t set to silence one or more sources. Also, if necessary, click the Audio tab and make sure that the expected sound card is the device selected under Sound Playback.

Solution 3: Make sure that your audio card’s driver is properly installed. Navigate to Windows’ Device Manager by right-clicking the My Computer icon and selecting Properties. Click the Hardware tab followed by the Device Manager button and open the Sound, Video And Game Controllers list. If you see a question mark or an exclamation point next to your card’s listing, or if you don’t see it listed at all, reinstall the sound card’s driver.

Solution 4: Give your connections a thorough inspection. Make sure all cables are firmly seated in their jacks. And if the cables are exposed, make sure they’re not frayed or damaged pets and small children can be effective gremlins. If you have an audio system that requires its own power, such as a 2.1 speaker system with a subwoofer, make sure it’s plugged in and turned on, with the volume up.

Solution 5: Try plugging the audio card into another PCI slot. It’s possible that the card is fine, but the slot itself, or the bus that serves it, has failed. If you’re using an external sound card, try a different USB or FireWire cable, in case the original has gone bad, as well as plugging the cable into different jacks on each end.

Solution 6: If you would like Windows to provide a guided walkthrough to pinpoint a problem, open Sounds And Audio Devices Properties as described in Solution 2, then click the Hardware tab, select your audio card in the list, and click the Troubleshoot button.

Problem: I’ve performed an operating system upgrade or installed other software, and now my sound card isn’t working the way it used to or doesn’t work with the new program I installed.
Solution: You may have introduced a software incompatibility to what had been a stable setup. First, check your card driver’s version number. Go to Windows’ Device Manager, right-click your sound card’s listing, and, from the pop-up menu, choose Properties, then click the Driver tab. Now visit your audio card manufacturer’s Web site and see if they’ve issued any updated drivers for your card. If they have, download and install the latest driver. Check the release notes to see if they specifically cover what you might have installed to cause the incompatibility.

Problem: My audio has low levels of hiss, static, or crackling.
Solution: Internal sound cards can be sensitive to EMF (electromagnetic field) interference caused by such system components as the power supply and other circuitry. Fortunately, increasing the distance between components by even a small amount can eliminate, or at least minimize, EMF problems. Try isolating your sound card by moving it to another slot, as far from other components as possible. EMF problems can also come from external devices: fluorescent lamps, cell phones, home entertainment gear, and other gadgets. If you’ve recently placed anything of the sort in your computer’s vicinity, unplug or move it and see if that makes a difference in your audio performance. If your PC came with an integrated sound card, and you’ve determined that the problem is internal interference, you’re not going to have a quick fix. An integrated sound card is hardwired in as part of the motherboard, which helps lower the price tag but introduces a greater possibility of EMF interference. If you can’t live with it, you’ll need to install a different card.

Problem: I’ve tried replacing the integrated card with a new, better PCI card, but it seems to operate erratically or not at all.

Solution: Before installing a new audio card, disable the integrated audio card. Begin by deleting its driver. Navigate to Windows’ Device Manager (righ tclick My Computer, select Properties, click the Hardware tab and then the Device Manager button) and expand the Sound, Video And Game Controllers list. Right-click the driver and, from the pop-up menu that appears, click the Uninstall option. Next, disengage the integrated audio card by restarting your PC. As your system reboots, press and hold the proper key to access your BIOS (Basic Input/Output System) settings. This varies according to manufacturer, but the DELETE key is the most common. Once you’re in the BIOS, select the Advanced option (although we have found the audio card under a category labeled Integrated Peripherals). Whichever location you go to, look for an item called Onboard Audio, Audio Device, or something similar. Choose its disable option, then press Escape and select Save And Exit from the main BIOS menu. After your PC boots into Windows, shut it down, install the new sound card, restart the PC, and install the drivers for the new sound card.

Problem: I’ve properly installed a new sound card, but it seems dead, or the sound gets stuck on a small snippet of audio, or the machine manifests some other bizarre hardware behavior.
Solution: This sounds like an IRQ (Interrupt Request) conflict between the card and another hardware device or component. Windows’ IRQ system is its means of handling the continual stream of requests for the processor’s attention. For smooth operation, components need a unique identifying number. If two devices end up with the same number, they’re asking for trouble.

Problem: I’m trying to run an audio signal into or out of a digital jack on my sound card, but I’m getting ugly noise in the signal, or no sound.

Solution: First, let’s address how digital audio differs from analog audio. Digital audio is a data stream with two settings, one of which is crucial to establishing a digital connection. The first setting is the sample rate. This denotes how many times per second an analog audio signal has its picture taken, so to speak, during the conversion process. Music CDs use a sample rate of 44.1kHz each second consists of 44,100 slices of audio data. The second setting is bit depth. This denotes the resolution for the volume of each sample. The higher the bit depth, the greater the resolution, the smoother the sound, and the greater its dynamic range. Music CDs are 16-bit. For two digital audio devices to communicate successfully one sending, the other receiving they need to communicate at the same sample rate. When they are, they’re considered locked. Some digital devices automatically reset to the sample rate they’re receiving; others must be set manually.

Where your PC is concerned, you’ll likely set the sample rate in the sound card driver’s control panel or in the software you’re using, such as recording software. Also, some sound cards that offer both coaxial and optical connections permit only one to be active at a time. Check the card’s control panel to ascertain that the connection you want to use is the designated choice. As for bit depth, devices communicating at different rates will still be compatible, but it’s better to send a lower rate signal to a higher rate destination. If, say, a 16-bit signal flows into a 24-bit destination, such as a recording application, you’ll capture the audio in full fidelity. Record a 24-bit signal as a 16-bit file, however, and you’ll be lopping off 8 bits of data, which can degrade audio quality.