Basic Troubleshooting Routers & Hubs

A router or hub is the cornerstone of the average home network. An Ethernet hub, which has several Ethernet ports, lets users share folders and files among all of the computers connected to the home network. A router generally has a built-in hub and also has features that let it share a broadband Internet connection with the networked PCs. Routers also usually include other features, such as wireless connectivity and a hardware firewall that can protect your computers from many of the digital threats floating around the Web. Because the router is the center of your network, many network problems can be traced back to it. A defective device, bad settings, old firmware, and firewall issues can all put your network on the blink. We’ll show you how to troubleshoot your router or hub so you can spot and fix common problems. Know Your Model Some of our problem/solutions below may send you to the router or hub manufacturer’s Web site to download product updates. To download the right updates, you’ll need to know the unit manufacturer and model number of your device.

Many routers and hubs bear the model number on the front panel and other information (such as the serial number) on the bottom of the device. How To Tell If The Router Or Hub Is The Problem You can determine whether your router is the source of your network troubles by eliminating other network devices as the problem sources. Chances are, there’re only a few potential troublemakers beyond your router: the connection from your ISP (Internet service provider) to your home, the broadband modem that translates the data from your phone or cable line, or a troubled network card. You can rule out the first two problem sources easily enough (see “Basic Troubleshooting: Network Interface Cards” for network adapter troubleshooting). To determine whether your cable modem is the problem, you’ll need to reset it. If your cable (or DSL [Digital Subscriber Line]) modem doesn’t have a reset button, you can probably reset it by unplugging the power cord from the device for a few minutes. Once you plug the power cord back into the cable modem, it will try to reconnect to your ISP. If the reset doesn’t solve the problem, call your ISP’s tech support number. The representative will let you know if Internet access is down in your area and can test the connection from the ISP to your modem to make sure it’s working properly.

The representative can probably even test your modem remotely, as well. Once you’ve determined that the ISP and modem are not to blame, disconnect your computer from the router and instead plug the PC’s Ethernet cable directly into the modem. Be sure to enable your firewall software before you try this test, as you’ll bypass the router (and its built-in hardware firewall) completely. (You can use Windows XP’s built-in Firewall: Open the Control Panel, double-click Windows Firewall, and then choose the On radio button.) If your computer can connect to the Internet, you’re looking at a router problem. If the PC still won’t connect to the Internet, you’ll need to troubleshoot the PC itself.

Problem: My firmware is not up to date.

Solution: Before you dive into the specific problems and solutions below, make sure your router’s firmware is up-to-date. This step is important in fact, we provide all other solutions in this article under the assumption that you have already updated your router’s firmware without solving the problem. Unlike peripherals, which require drivers to communicate with your PC, your router needs only firmware, which is a small program stored in the device’s memory. Firmware controls the device and provides a menu of features that you can access via an Internet browser. As they do with drivers, device manufacturers often release updated versions of firmware that fix bugs and add new features. If you’re experiencing any problems with your router, you should kick off your troubleshooting session by making sure that the device has the most recent firmware release after all, the new firmware version may fix the problem automatically or provide tools that will let you fix the problem. To determine the router’s current firmware version, you’ll need to open the firmware menu. Open your Internet browser (such as Firefox or Internet Explorer) and then enter the router’s IP (Internet Protocol) address in the browser’s Address bar. Your router’s users manual will come in handy here (if you don’t have it any longer, download the manual from the Support section of the manufacturer’s Web site), as it will include the router’s IP address (such as 192.168.1.1). You will almost certainly see a login screen before the menu appears. Consult your manual for the login information if you haven’t already changed the username and password (and don’t forget to change the username and password later on default login info leaves your network open to even the most inexperienced hackers). You can visit the router’s IP address via your Internet browser whether your Internet connection is working or not: the data travels between your PC and the router via your Ethernet cable. When the firmware menu appears in your browser, look for the firmware version number, which generally appears on the front page of the menu. If you don’t see the firmware version, check your manual the manufacturer likely placed the version number somewhere else in the menu. Once you have your current firmware version number, visit the router manufacturer’s Web site and head for the Support section. Look up your router’s model number to see whether the manufacturer has a more recent version available for download. Don’t panic if you don’t have the latest version: Downloading and installing it is a very simple process. Once you’ve downloaded the new firmware, check your manual for installation instructions. In our experience, the manual will tell you to return to your router’s existing firmware and use a built-in update feature that can automatically update the device via the file you just downloaded.

Problem: I can access the Internet when I connect directly to my broadband modem, but not when I put a router between the modem and my PC.

Solution 1: Update your firmware by following our instructions in the previous problem and solution, as buggy firmware might be the problem. If you already have the latest version of the router’s firmware, use the firmware menu to return all of the features to their default settings. If this solves the connection problem, be sure to make future settings changes one at a time so you’ll know what setting causes trouble if you encounter problems again.

Solution 2: Reset your network devices. This gives them the chance to reassign IP addresses and connect to each other without conflicts. To completely reset your network devices, power off your PC and then unplug your broadband modem and router. Leave the units unplugged for a few minutes. Consult your device manuals to determine whether you need to perform any additional tasks to reset the devices (some units have Reset buttons, for example). Finally, plug in and power on your devices, starting with the broadband modem, then your router, and then your PC.

Problem: I can’t access certain Web sites from computers on my network.

Solution: Chances are good that your software firewall is the culprit, rather than your router. Software firewalls might block your access to certain Web sites for a variety of reasons. If your computer runs a software firewall, start your troubleshooting by first disabling the software firewall and then visiting the Web site again. If you still can’t access the site, enter your router’s firmware menu and then navigate to its filtering settings. Anyone who can log into your router’s firmware (via the username and password you defined) can use the router’s filtering features to create a list of Web sites that the router will block access to. As we mentioned, this is a much less likely scenario than your software firewall detecting something on the Web site that triggers its own blocking features.

Problem: All of my computers can access the Internet via the router, but they can’t see each other.

Solution: You can easily solve this problem by configuring your PCs to recognize each other (and share files, folders, and printers) over the network. Although your computers are physically networked, they may not yet belong to a specific network group and may lack other settings (such as file sharing settings). Some networking devices include file-sharing programs that let you configure your network, but don’t panic if your equipment doesn’t include such software. Windows has a built-in Network Setup Wizard that can configure your computers and put them into a network group. Once you complete the wizard on each networked PC, you’ll be able to see all of your network computers’ shared folders in the My Network Places window and access any shared printers. To start the wizard, click Start, All Programs, Accessories, Communications, Network Setup Wizard, and then follow the Wizard’s instructions.

Problem: My wireless router dropped the connection to my home computers.
Solution: Your wireless router assigns an IP address to each of the computers on your network. If your computer drops its wireless connection and doesn’t produce any error messages, you can probably reinstate the connection by reassigning an IP address via router. Routers generally use DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) to automatically assign IP addresses, so you’ll want to release the router’s DHCP assignments and then force it to assign new IP addresses. To force a DHCP release, enter your router’s firmware menu and look for a DHCP Release feature. Your router’s manual or the firmware’s support documentation will help you find the feature. Many routers feature DHCP Release and DHCP Renew buttons that let you quickly complete this task.

Problem: My hub’s connections work fine but the Speed LED doesn’t light up for one of my connections.

Solution: The connection that isn’t triggering the LED is not operating at the hub’s maximum data transfer speed. Most hubs support at least two speeds (10Mbps [megabits per second] and 100Mbps), and some also support gigabit (1,000Mbps) speeds. Rather than clutter the hub’s front panel with LEDs for each of the hub’s supported speeds, the manufacturer simply added a single LED (per port) that lights up only when the port is operating at full speed. Many hubs have a separate LED that indicates whether data is currently transferring across the port. If this LED doesn’t light up when you attempt to send data, you may have a connection problem. Otherwise, you’re simply facing a port that isn’t operating at its top speed. If you expected the port to operate at its maximum speed, double-check the cable that connects to the port, as well as the network adapter in your PC. The adapter is particularly important if it doesn’t support the same top speed that your hub supports, the data transfer will slow the adapter’s speed. The cable can also affect data speed in some situations. Standard 10/100 hubs transfer data over CAT5 (Category 5) Ethernet cables, whereas gigabit hubs need CAT5e cables to offer top data transfer speeds.

Basic Troubleshooting Network Interface Cards

Whether you have a home network or are among the ever-increasing number of people signing up for broadband Internet access, your computer’s NIC (Network Interface Card) is its lifeline to the rest of the world. Making sure your NIC runs at peak performance (or runs at all) is a big priority for any PC user, and doing so has become increasingly difficult because of the problems associated with wireless NICs. Most of today’s computers have a NIC integrated directly into the computer’s motherboard. If you have an older computer, the NIC is most likely installed in a PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) slot, or it may have an external NIC that attaches to a USB port. If the computer has a wired NIC, you can identify it by looking for an Ethernet port, which looks like an oversized phone jack and has lights above or below it that flash to indicate network activity. An Ethernet cable attaches to the jack, and then the other end of the cable attaches to a broadband modem or to a router (also called a gateway or access point) if you have a home network. Wireless NICs typically attach to one of the computer’s USB ports (or slide into an expansion bay if you have a notebook computer), although some wireless NICs designed for desktop PCs use a PCI slot and have an antenna instead of an Ethernet port. The NIC is just one link in the chain between the computer and the Internet or network, so it’s sometimes difficult to tell if the NIC is responsible when those types of connections go haywire. With wired and wireless NICs, if the connection is working but seems very slow (especially over the network), then the NIC is likely to blame. If there is no connection at all, check the router and broadband modem first to make sure they are plugged in and operational. Wired NICs are incredibly reliable, while wireless NICs are notoriously unreliable, so keep that in mind when determining what is responsible for network and Internet problems. If the router and broadband modem seem to be working properly and you don’t see any lights blinking on the NIC, the NIC is likely dead and needs to be replaced. Beyond that, there are several common troubleshooting steps you can take that will clear up most problems. All of the following tips apply to Windows XP but will work with other versions of Windows with slight modifications. General Troubleshooting

Problem: The NIC doesn’t run as fast as advertised.

Solution: Click Start, Control Panel, and Switch To Classic View (if necessary), and double-click Network Connections. Right-click Local Area Connection, click Properties, and click Configure. Select the Advanced tab and click the speed-related entry in the Property box (on our PC it was labeled Link Speed & Duplex, but this may vary depending on the NIC that is installed). Use the Value dropdown box to select the fastest speed your NIC supports, which is likely 10/100Mbps (megabits per second) Full Duplex but may be 1,000Mbps Full Duplex if you have a Gigabit Ethernet card installed. Click OK and reboot the computer. The card should operate at its full speed, assuming your router and the network computer you’re connecting to also support that speed. The speed of a wireless NIC depends mainly on the strength of the wireless signal it receives. You can get a quick read of the strength of your NIC’s wireless connection by hovering the mouse cursor over the wireless icon in the system tray and waiting for a balloon to appear that tells you the overall signal strength. If it doesn’t say Excellent or Very Good, then you may need to move the computer closer to the wireless router, upgrade the router, or invest in an antenna that attaches to the router and boosts the signal.

Problem: The NIC has power (the lights blink), but my computer won’t connect to the network or to the Internet.

Solution: Sometimes the NIC must be “reset” so the router recognizes it. Click Start, Control Panel, and Switch To Classic View (if necessary), and double-click Network Connections. Click Repair This Connection in the Network Tasks box, wait for the process to complete, and click Close. If the connection still doesn’t work, you may need to uninstall and reinstall the NIC according to the instructions it came with.

Problem: My NIC has an inherent problem that I’ve heard is fixable by applying a driver and/or firmware update, but I don’t know how to do this.

Solution: Drivers are software that Windows uses to communicate with your hardware, while firmware is software that is installed in a special memory chip on the NIC and that controls all aspects of the NIC’s operation. Updating to the latest drivers and firmware revisions can fix bugs, enhance compatibility, and add new features to the NIC that can help you avoid further trouble. You must download the latest drivers and firmware from the manufacturer’s Web site, and when doing so you must make sure it matches up with the exact make and model of NIC you use. To find out this information, look for a sticker on the bottom of an external NIC. For internal NICs, click Start, right-click My Computer, click Properties, and select the Hardware tab. Click Device Manager, expand the Network Adapters entry by clicking the plus (+) sign next to it, and write down the exact name that appears there. Use the instructions provided by the manufacturer to install the drivers or firmware. This is especially important during firmware upgrades as mistakes during the process can render the NIC useless. Troubleshooting Wireless NICs

Problem: I attached a wireless NIC to a device (such as a game console or digital video recorder), but the device does not have access to my home network or to the Internet.

Solution: The first thing to do is to determine whether the device is compatible with a NIC, because there’s a good chance it needs a wireless bridge. Bridges are a lot like wireless NICs except they have more internal hardware that lets them act as a sort of wireless cable. This means bridges work with just about every type of network-enabled product, whereas wireless NICs only work with products that have enough integrated networking hardware to recognize the NIC and manage the network connection. If the device requires a bridge, you’ll need to buy one, attach it to your router, and configure it to work with your network according to the instructions provided with the router. Once you configure the bridge, it should work with all of your network enabled devices simply by plugging it into their Ethernet ports. If the device is supposed to work with a wireless NIC, then it must have some network setup menu that you can access to input network settings such as the network name and password. Check the documentation that came with the device to figure out how to enter this data, which must match the settings that were established when you set up and secured your wireless router.

Problem: I booted the computer but can’t access either the network or the Internet.

Solution: Sometimes the wireless NIC simply doesn’t turn on or fails to connect to the network on its initial attempt. When this happens, the wireless icon in the system tray has a red X next to it, so right-click the icon and click Repair. If that doesn’t establish the connection, right-click the icon and click View Available Wireless Networks. Find your network on the list, click its entry, and click Connect.

Problem: My NIC says it supports speeds that are much faster than the 802.11g or 802.11a specifications allow, but I never achieve those high speeds when transferring network files.

Solution:802.11g and 802.11a (the two most popular high-speed wireless Ethernet standards) operate at up to 54Mbps (megabits per second), but most manufacturers add speedboosting technology to their wireless products that allow for much faster speeds. Unfortunately, these technologies are not standardized and therefore do not work with similar products from other manufacturers, so stick to products from the same company (that use the exact same speed-boosting technology) to benefit from a faster connection.

Basic Troubleshooting Wireless Access Cards

Wireless access cards, also known as wireless adapters, replace standard Ethernet cables to create a wireless link between your PC and a wireless AP (access point) or router. Although wireless networking equipment offers convenience to users who want to place computers in multiple rooms without running Ethernet cables around the house, the equipment isn’t foolproof: You’re bound to run into network problems at some point. We’ll help you troubleshoot an unruly wireless adapter. Make & Model Whether you plan to call tech support or simply want to search for drivers on the manufacturer’s Web site, you’ll need to know your device’s model number. In most cases, finding the model number is a snap: If you don’t see the model number on the device itself, you can find it via your computer’s Device Manager. Click Start, Control Panel, and then open System. Click Device Manager and then click the plus (+) sign next to Net-work Adapters. Your adapter’s name will appear and will most likely include a model number. The adapter’s software will also generally display its model number. Update Your Drivers Software publishers and hardware manufacturers tweak their products for months (and sometimes years) after they release them.

Software publishers update their programs via patches, while hardware manufacturers tweak their hardware with firmware updates and new driver releases. Updated drivers sometimes add functionality, but they also often include important bug fixes. If you’re experiencing any problems with your wireless adapter, we recommend that you download and install the latest driver for your adapter. To determine your driver’s version number, click Start, Control Panel, and then open System. Click Device Manager and then click the plus sign next to Network Adapters. Right-click your wireless adapter and then click Properties. Finally, click the Driver tab, which will display your driver version and driver release date. Next, visit the Support section of the manufacturer’s Web site and see if a newer driver is available. If it is, download the driver to your hard drive. To uninstall your existing driver, open the adapter’s Properties window, click the Driver tab, and then Update Driver. When the Hardware Update Wizard appears, click the No, Not This Time radio button and then click Next. Click the Install From A List Or Specific Location (Advanced), click Next, and then check the Include This Location In The Search box. Click the Browse button, navigate to the downloaded driver on your hard drive, and then complete the wizard. If your adapter connects to one of the PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) slots in your computer, keep in mind that you may need to remove the adapter before you start the driver installation. (Your adapter’s manual will let you know if you need to disconnect it.) Keep a screwdriver handy.

Problem: My PC’s wireless adapter won’t connect to my wireless AP or router.

Solution 1: Make sure your AP or router supports the same wireless networking standard that your adapter uses. For example, you can use 802.11b and g devices without any compatibility problems, but you can’t use an 802.11a adapter to connect to an 802.11g network. This may seem like a “no kidding” sort of solution, but if you’ve ever fretted over a seemingly dead PC, only to discover that the power cord was unplugged, you’ll agree that sometimes the obvious answer is the one we overlook.

Solution 2: Renew the router’s DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) settings. Your router most likely uses the DHCP networking protocol to automatically assign IP (Internet Protocol) addresses to all of the PCs on your network. You can often fix a dropped connection by entering your router’s firmware menu and using the firmware’s DHCP Release/Renew feature (see “Basic Troubleshooting: Routers & Hubs” to learn more about forcing a DHCP release).

Solution 3: Switch your wireless connection software. Chances are, you’re using the adapter manufacturer’s software. Windows XP includes the Wireless Zero Configuration Utility, but your adapter’s software overrides it by default. You can switch to the Zero Configuration Utility only if your adapter’s software permits it. Find the adapter’s icon (which appears in the System Tray) and then right-click it. You may see Use Windows XP Wireless Configuration (or a similar link). Click the link, open the Control Panel and then open Network Connections. Next, double-click the Wireless Network Connection icon to view available networks.

Problem: My wireless connection is weak or drops frequently.

Solution 1: Determine whether physical obstacles are weakening the signal. Not surprisingly, wireless networks offer the strongest signals in open spaces, but unless your home resembles a hanger, your wireless network must negotiate walls and floors, both of which can reduce the strength and range of the signal. Today’s home networking equipment can reach as far as 300 feet in the very best circumstances, but your home’s metal and concrete will savage your router’s signal strength. If the computers closest to your wireless AP or router aren’t dropping the wireless connection and the computer that is dropping the connection is at the far end of the house, you can probably blame your network troubles on distance and physical barriers. There are two popular types of signal-strengthening devices on the market for home users: rangeboosting antennae and repeaters. Several manufacturers offer APs and wireless routers that have removable antenna. If you can detach your router’s antenna, you can replace it with an antenna that offers more dBi (decibels relative to isotropic). Chances are, your router’s manufacturer also offers an optional range-boosting antenna. Repeaters, which are devices that resemble APs, also boost your router’s signal strength and are great for throwing the signal around corners. Unlike antennae, which attach directly to the router, a repeater can sit far from a router, pick up the router’s signal, and “repeat” it. If your PC sits behind a particularly thick wall or other physical barrier, consider placing a repeater between the router and the PC that drops connections.

Solution 2: Move your wireless adapter or your computer. If your computer sits under your desk or in a cupboard, consider buying a wireless USB adapter that includes a lengthy cable. You can run the USB adapter’s antenna up to the top of your desk, where it may get better reception.

Solution 3: Change your wireless channel. If you live in an area that has many wireless networks, you may see a performance boost when you change your router’s wireless channel. Other APs and wireless routers that use the same channel your router uses may reduce the strength of your signal. Your router supports up to 11 channels, which means you have plenty of wiggle room. To change your router’s channel, you’ll need to enter its firmware menu via an Internet browser (see “Basic Troubleshooting: Routers & Hubs” to learn more about accessing the menu). Once you enter the menu, browse for the router’s wireless settings, which will include a field that lets you choose a channel. Most standard networking devices choose a channel by default and then let users change the channel, but enhanced devices that offer extra range and speed functionality may insist on a specific channel until you disable the performance-boosting feature.

Problem: I can’t find my wireless access point or router.

Solution: When you first try to connect to your network, your wireless adapter’s software will scan the area for available networks and then display a list of networks. If you don’t see your own list in this network, you may have disabled the router’s SSID (Service Set Identifier) feature, which broadcasts the SSID to local wireless adapters. Disabling the SSID broadcast is a common security method, as it effectively stealths your network, making it that much harder for would-be hackers to spot. The good news is that your adapter doesn’t need to see the SSID to connect to your router. Your adapter’s software includes a manual connection feature that lets you enter your network’s information, including the SSID (which means that you’ll need to know your router’s SSID refer to the router’s firmware to find it). Once you enter the appropriate SSID and encryption information, you’ll be able to connect to your router without any trouble.