Basic Troubleshooting Routers & Hubs

A router or hub is the cornerstone of the average home network. An Ethernet hub, which has several Ethernet ports, lets users share folders and files among all of the computers connected to the home network. A router generally has a built-in hub and also has features that let it share a broadband Internet connection with the networked PCs. Routers also usually include other features, such as wireless connectivity and a hardware firewall that can protect your computers from many of the digital threats floating around the Web. Because the router is the center of your network, many network problems can be traced back to it. A defective device, bad settings, old firmware, and firewall issues can all put your network on the blink. We’ll show you how to troubleshoot your router or hub so you can spot and fix common problems. Know Your Model Some of our problem/solutions below may send you to the router or hub manufacturer’s Web site to download product updates. To download the right updates, you’ll need to know the unit manufacturer and model number of your device.

Many routers and hubs bear the model number on the front panel and other information (such as the serial number) on the bottom of the device. How To Tell If The Router Or Hub Is The Problem You can determine whether your router is the source of your network troubles by eliminating other network devices as the problem sources. Chances are, there’re only a few potential troublemakers beyond your router: the connection from your ISP (Internet service provider) to your home, the broadband modem that translates the data from your phone or cable line, or a troubled network card. You can rule out the first two problem sources easily enough (see “Basic Troubleshooting: Network Interface Cards” for network adapter troubleshooting). To determine whether your cable modem is the problem, you’ll need to reset it. If your cable (or DSL [Digital Subscriber Line]) modem doesn’t have a reset button, you can probably reset it by unplugging the power cord from the device for a few minutes. Once you plug the power cord back into the cable modem, it will try to reconnect to your ISP. If the reset doesn’t solve the problem, call your ISP’s tech support number. The representative will let you know if Internet access is down in your area and can test the connection from the ISP to your modem to make sure it’s working properly.

The representative can probably even test your modem remotely, as well. Once you’ve determined that the ISP and modem are not to blame, disconnect your computer from the router and instead plug the PC’s Ethernet cable directly into the modem. Be sure to enable your firewall software before you try this test, as you’ll bypass the router (and its built-in hardware firewall) completely. (You can use Windows XP’s built-in Firewall: Open the Control Panel, double-click Windows Firewall, and then choose the On radio button.) If your computer can connect to the Internet, you’re looking at a router problem. If the PC still won’t connect to the Internet, you’ll need to troubleshoot the PC itself.

Problem: My firmware is not up to date.

Solution: Before you dive into the specific problems and solutions below, make sure your router’s firmware is up-to-date. This step is important in fact, we provide all other solutions in this article under the assumption that you have already updated your router’s firmware without solving the problem. Unlike peripherals, which require drivers to communicate with your PC, your router needs only firmware, which is a small program stored in the device’s memory. Firmware controls the device and provides a menu of features that you can access via an Internet browser. As they do with drivers, device manufacturers often release updated versions of firmware that fix bugs and add new features. If you’re experiencing any problems with your router, you should kick off your troubleshooting session by making sure that the device has the most recent firmware release after all, the new firmware version may fix the problem automatically or provide tools that will let you fix the problem. To determine the router’s current firmware version, you’ll need to open the firmware menu. Open your Internet browser (such as Firefox or Internet Explorer) and then enter the router’s IP (Internet Protocol) address in the browser’s Address bar. Your router’s users manual will come in handy here (if you don’t have it any longer, download the manual from the Support section of the manufacturer’s Web site), as it will include the router’s IP address (such as 192.168.1.1). You will almost certainly see a login screen before the menu appears. Consult your manual for the login information if you haven’t already changed the username and password (and don’t forget to change the username and password later on default login info leaves your network open to even the most inexperienced hackers). You can visit the router’s IP address via your Internet browser whether your Internet connection is working or not: the data travels between your PC and the router via your Ethernet cable. When the firmware menu appears in your browser, look for the firmware version number, which generally appears on the front page of the menu. If you don’t see the firmware version, check your manual the manufacturer likely placed the version number somewhere else in the menu. Once you have your current firmware version number, visit the router manufacturer’s Web site and head for the Support section. Look up your router’s model number to see whether the manufacturer has a more recent version available for download. Don’t panic if you don’t have the latest version: Downloading and installing it is a very simple process. Once you’ve downloaded the new firmware, check your manual for installation instructions. In our experience, the manual will tell you to return to your router’s existing firmware and use a built-in update feature that can automatically update the device via the file you just downloaded.

Problem: I can access the Internet when I connect directly to my broadband modem, but not when I put a router between the modem and my PC.

Solution 1: Update your firmware by following our instructions in the previous problem and solution, as buggy firmware might be the problem. If you already have the latest version of the router’s firmware, use the firmware menu to return all of the features to their default settings. If this solves the connection problem, be sure to make future settings changes one at a time so you’ll know what setting causes trouble if you encounter problems again.

Solution 2: Reset your network devices. This gives them the chance to reassign IP addresses and connect to each other without conflicts. To completely reset your network devices, power off your PC and then unplug your broadband modem and router. Leave the units unplugged for a few minutes. Consult your device manuals to determine whether you need to perform any additional tasks to reset the devices (some units have Reset buttons, for example). Finally, plug in and power on your devices, starting with the broadband modem, then your router, and then your PC.

Problem: I can’t access certain Web sites from computers on my network.

Solution: Chances are good that your software firewall is the culprit, rather than your router. Software firewalls might block your access to certain Web sites for a variety of reasons. If your computer runs a software firewall, start your troubleshooting by first disabling the software firewall and then visiting the Web site again. If you still can’t access the site, enter your router’s firmware menu and then navigate to its filtering settings. Anyone who can log into your router’s firmware (via the username and password you defined) can use the router’s filtering features to create a list of Web sites that the router will block access to. As we mentioned, this is a much less likely scenario than your software firewall detecting something on the Web site that triggers its own blocking features.

Problem: All of my computers can access the Internet via the router, but they can’t see each other.

Solution: You can easily solve this problem by configuring your PCs to recognize each other (and share files, folders, and printers) over the network. Although your computers are physically networked, they may not yet belong to a specific network group and may lack other settings (such as file sharing settings). Some networking devices include file-sharing programs that let you configure your network, but don’t panic if your equipment doesn’t include such software. Windows has a built-in Network Setup Wizard that can configure your computers and put them into a network group. Once you complete the wizard on each networked PC, you’ll be able to see all of your network computers’ shared folders in the My Network Places window and access any shared printers. To start the wizard, click Start, All Programs, Accessories, Communications, Network Setup Wizard, and then follow the Wizard’s instructions.

Problem: My wireless router dropped the connection to my home computers.
Solution: Your wireless router assigns an IP address to each of the computers on your network. If your computer drops its wireless connection and doesn’t produce any error messages, you can probably reinstate the connection by reassigning an IP address via router. Routers generally use DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) to automatically assign IP addresses, so you’ll want to release the router’s DHCP assignments and then force it to assign new IP addresses. To force a DHCP release, enter your router’s firmware menu and look for a DHCP Release feature. Your router’s manual or the firmware’s support documentation will help you find the feature. Many routers feature DHCP Release and DHCP Renew buttons that let you quickly complete this task.

Problem: My hub’s connections work fine but the Speed LED doesn’t light up for one of my connections.

Solution: The connection that isn’t triggering the LED is not operating at the hub’s maximum data transfer speed. Most hubs support at least two speeds (10Mbps [megabits per second] and 100Mbps), and some also support gigabit (1,000Mbps) speeds. Rather than clutter the hub’s front panel with LEDs for each of the hub’s supported speeds, the manufacturer simply added a single LED (per port) that lights up only when the port is operating at full speed. Many hubs have a separate LED that indicates whether data is currently transferring across the port. If this LED doesn’t light up when you attempt to send data, you may have a connection problem. Otherwise, you’re simply facing a port that isn’t operating at its top speed. If you expected the port to operate at its maximum speed, double-check the cable that connects to the port, as well as the network adapter in your PC. The adapter is particularly important if it doesn’t support the same top speed that your hub supports, the data transfer will slow the adapter’s speed. The cable can also affect data speed in some situations. Standard 10/100 hubs transfer data over CAT5 (Category 5) Ethernet cables, whereas gigabit hubs need CAT5e cables to offer top data transfer speeds.

Basic Troubleshooting Network Interface Cards

Whether you have a home network or are among the ever-increasing number of people signing up for broadband Internet access, your computer’s NIC (Network Interface Card) is its lifeline to the rest of the world. Making sure your NIC runs at peak performance (or runs at all) is a big priority for any PC user, and doing so has become increasingly difficult because of the problems associated with wireless NICs. Most of today’s computers have a NIC integrated directly into the computer’s motherboard. If you have an older computer, the NIC is most likely installed in a PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) slot, or it may have an external NIC that attaches to a USB port. If the computer has a wired NIC, you can identify it by looking for an Ethernet port, which looks like an oversized phone jack and has lights above or below it that flash to indicate network activity. An Ethernet cable attaches to the jack, and then the other end of the cable attaches to a broadband modem or to a router (also called a gateway or access point) if you have a home network. Wireless NICs typically attach to one of the computer’s USB ports (or slide into an expansion bay if you have a notebook computer), although some wireless NICs designed for desktop PCs use a PCI slot and have an antenna instead of an Ethernet port. The NIC is just one link in the chain between the computer and the Internet or network, so it’s sometimes difficult to tell if the NIC is responsible when those types of connections go haywire. With wired and wireless NICs, if the connection is working but seems very slow (especially over the network), then the NIC is likely to blame. If there is no connection at all, check the router and broadband modem first to make sure they are plugged in and operational. Wired NICs are incredibly reliable, while wireless NICs are notoriously unreliable, so keep that in mind when determining what is responsible for network and Internet problems. If the router and broadband modem seem to be working properly and you don’t see any lights blinking on the NIC, the NIC is likely dead and needs to be replaced. Beyond that, there are several common troubleshooting steps you can take that will clear up most problems. All of the following tips apply to Windows XP but will work with other versions of Windows with slight modifications. General Troubleshooting

Problem: The NIC doesn’t run as fast as advertised.

Solution: Click Start, Control Panel, and Switch To Classic View (if necessary), and double-click Network Connections. Right-click Local Area Connection, click Properties, and click Configure. Select the Advanced tab and click the speed-related entry in the Property box (on our PC it was labeled Link Speed & Duplex, but this may vary depending on the NIC that is installed). Use the Value dropdown box to select the fastest speed your NIC supports, which is likely 10/100Mbps (megabits per second) Full Duplex but may be 1,000Mbps Full Duplex if you have a Gigabit Ethernet card installed. Click OK and reboot the computer. The card should operate at its full speed, assuming your router and the network computer you’re connecting to also support that speed. The speed of a wireless NIC depends mainly on the strength of the wireless signal it receives. You can get a quick read of the strength of your NIC’s wireless connection by hovering the mouse cursor over the wireless icon in the system tray and waiting for a balloon to appear that tells you the overall signal strength. If it doesn’t say Excellent or Very Good, then you may need to move the computer closer to the wireless router, upgrade the router, or invest in an antenna that attaches to the router and boosts the signal.

Problem: The NIC has power (the lights blink), but my computer won’t connect to the network or to the Internet.

Solution: Sometimes the NIC must be “reset” so the router recognizes it. Click Start, Control Panel, and Switch To Classic View (if necessary), and double-click Network Connections. Click Repair This Connection in the Network Tasks box, wait for the process to complete, and click Close. If the connection still doesn’t work, you may need to uninstall and reinstall the NIC according to the instructions it came with.

Problem: My NIC has an inherent problem that I’ve heard is fixable by applying a driver and/or firmware update, but I don’t know how to do this.

Solution: Drivers are software that Windows uses to communicate with your hardware, while firmware is software that is installed in a special memory chip on the NIC and that controls all aspects of the NIC’s operation. Updating to the latest drivers and firmware revisions can fix bugs, enhance compatibility, and add new features to the NIC that can help you avoid further trouble. You must download the latest drivers and firmware from the manufacturer’s Web site, and when doing so you must make sure it matches up with the exact make and model of NIC you use. To find out this information, look for a sticker on the bottom of an external NIC. For internal NICs, click Start, right-click My Computer, click Properties, and select the Hardware tab. Click Device Manager, expand the Network Adapters entry by clicking the plus (+) sign next to it, and write down the exact name that appears there. Use the instructions provided by the manufacturer to install the drivers or firmware. This is especially important during firmware upgrades as mistakes during the process can render the NIC useless. Troubleshooting Wireless NICs

Problem: I attached a wireless NIC to a device (such as a game console or digital video recorder), but the device does not have access to my home network or to the Internet.

Solution: The first thing to do is to determine whether the device is compatible with a NIC, because there’s a good chance it needs a wireless bridge. Bridges are a lot like wireless NICs except they have more internal hardware that lets them act as a sort of wireless cable. This means bridges work with just about every type of network-enabled product, whereas wireless NICs only work with products that have enough integrated networking hardware to recognize the NIC and manage the network connection. If the device requires a bridge, you’ll need to buy one, attach it to your router, and configure it to work with your network according to the instructions provided with the router. Once you configure the bridge, it should work with all of your network enabled devices simply by plugging it into their Ethernet ports. If the device is supposed to work with a wireless NIC, then it must have some network setup menu that you can access to input network settings such as the network name and password. Check the documentation that came with the device to figure out how to enter this data, which must match the settings that were established when you set up and secured your wireless router.

Problem: I booted the computer but can’t access either the network or the Internet.

Solution: Sometimes the wireless NIC simply doesn’t turn on or fails to connect to the network on its initial attempt. When this happens, the wireless icon in the system tray has a red X next to it, so right-click the icon and click Repair. If that doesn’t establish the connection, right-click the icon and click View Available Wireless Networks. Find your network on the list, click its entry, and click Connect.

Problem: My NIC says it supports speeds that are much faster than the 802.11g or 802.11a specifications allow, but I never achieve those high speeds when transferring network files.

Solution:802.11g and 802.11a (the two most popular high-speed wireless Ethernet standards) operate at up to 54Mbps (megabits per second), but most manufacturers add speedboosting technology to their wireless products that allow for much faster speeds. Unfortunately, these technologies are not standardized and therefore do not work with similar products from other manufacturers, so stick to products from the same company (that use the exact same speed-boosting technology) to benefit from a faster connection.

Basic Troubleshooting Wireless Access Cards

Wireless access cards, also known as wireless adapters, replace standard Ethernet cables to create a wireless link between your PC and a wireless AP (access point) or router. Although wireless networking equipment offers convenience to users who want to place computers in multiple rooms without running Ethernet cables around the house, the equipment isn’t foolproof: You’re bound to run into network problems at some point. We’ll help you troubleshoot an unruly wireless adapter. Make & Model Whether you plan to call tech support or simply want to search for drivers on the manufacturer’s Web site, you’ll need to know your device’s model number. In most cases, finding the model number is a snap: If you don’t see the model number on the device itself, you can find it via your computer’s Device Manager. Click Start, Control Panel, and then open System. Click Device Manager and then click the plus (+) sign next to Net-work Adapters. Your adapter’s name will appear and will most likely include a model number. The adapter’s software will also generally display its model number. Update Your Drivers Software publishers and hardware manufacturers tweak their products for months (and sometimes years) after they release them.

Software publishers update their programs via patches, while hardware manufacturers tweak their hardware with firmware updates and new driver releases. Updated drivers sometimes add functionality, but they also often include important bug fixes. If you’re experiencing any problems with your wireless adapter, we recommend that you download and install the latest driver for your adapter. To determine your driver’s version number, click Start, Control Panel, and then open System. Click Device Manager and then click the plus sign next to Network Adapters. Right-click your wireless adapter and then click Properties. Finally, click the Driver tab, which will display your driver version and driver release date. Next, visit the Support section of the manufacturer’s Web site and see if a newer driver is available. If it is, download the driver to your hard drive. To uninstall your existing driver, open the adapter’s Properties window, click the Driver tab, and then Update Driver. When the Hardware Update Wizard appears, click the No, Not This Time radio button and then click Next. Click the Install From A List Or Specific Location (Advanced), click Next, and then check the Include This Location In The Search box. Click the Browse button, navigate to the downloaded driver on your hard drive, and then complete the wizard. If your adapter connects to one of the PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) slots in your computer, keep in mind that you may need to remove the adapter before you start the driver installation. (Your adapter’s manual will let you know if you need to disconnect it.) Keep a screwdriver handy.

Problem: My PC’s wireless adapter won’t connect to my wireless AP or router.

Solution 1: Make sure your AP or router supports the same wireless networking standard that your adapter uses. For example, you can use 802.11b and g devices without any compatibility problems, but you can’t use an 802.11a adapter to connect to an 802.11g network. This may seem like a “no kidding” sort of solution, but if you’ve ever fretted over a seemingly dead PC, only to discover that the power cord was unplugged, you’ll agree that sometimes the obvious answer is the one we overlook.

Solution 2: Renew the router’s DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) settings. Your router most likely uses the DHCP networking protocol to automatically assign IP (Internet Protocol) addresses to all of the PCs on your network. You can often fix a dropped connection by entering your router’s firmware menu and using the firmware’s DHCP Release/Renew feature (see “Basic Troubleshooting: Routers & Hubs” to learn more about forcing a DHCP release).

Solution 3: Switch your wireless connection software. Chances are, you’re using the adapter manufacturer’s software. Windows XP includes the Wireless Zero Configuration Utility, but your adapter’s software overrides it by default. You can switch to the Zero Configuration Utility only if your adapter’s software permits it. Find the adapter’s icon (which appears in the System Tray) and then right-click it. You may see Use Windows XP Wireless Configuration (or a similar link). Click the link, open the Control Panel and then open Network Connections. Next, double-click the Wireless Network Connection icon to view available networks.

Problem: My wireless connection is weak or drops frequently.

Solution 1: Determine whether physical obstacles are weakening the signal. Not surprisingly, wireless networks offer the strongest signals in open spaces, but unless your home resembles a hanger, your wireless network must negotiate walls and floors, both of which can reduce the strength and range of the signal. Today’s home networking equipment can reach as far as 300 feet in the very best circumstances, but your home’s metal and concrete will savage your router’s signal strength. If the computers closest to your wireless AP or router aren’t dropping the wireless connection and the computer that is dropping the connection is at the far end of the house, you can probably blame your network troubles on distance and physical barriers. There are two popular types of signal-strengthening devices on the market for home users: rangeboosting antennae and repeaters. Several manufacturers offer APs and wireless routers that have removable antenna. If you can detach your router’s antenna, you can replace it with an antenna that offers more dBi (decibels relative to isotropic). Chances are, your router’s manufacturer also offers an optional range-boosting antenna. Repeaters, which are devices that resemble APs, also boost your router’s signal strength and are great for throwing the signal around corners. Unlike antennae, which attach directly to the router, a repeater can sit far from a router, pick up the router’s signal, and “repeat” it. If your PC sits behind a particularly thick wall or other physical barrier, consider placing a repeater between the router and the PC that drops connections.

Solution 2: Move your wireless adapter or your computer. If your computer sits under your desk or in a cupboard, consider buying a wireless USB adapter that includes a lengthy cable. You can run the USB adapter’s antenna up to the top of your desk, where it may get better reception.

Solution 3: Change your wireless channel. If you live in an area that has many wireless networks, you may see a performance boost when you change your router’s wireless channel. Other APs and wireless routers that use the same channel your router uses may reduce the strength of your signal. Your router supports up to 11 channels, which means you have plenty of wiggle room. To change your router’s channel, you’ll need to enter its firmware menu via an Internet browser (see “Basic Troubleshooting: Routers & Hubs” to learn more about accessing the menu). Once you enter the menu, browse for the router’s wireless settings, which will include a field that lets you choose a channel. Most standard networking devices choose a channel by default and then let users change the channel, but enhanced devices that offer extra range and speed functionality may insist on a specific channel until you disable the performance-boosting feature.

Problem: I can’t find my wireless access point or router.

Solution: When you first try to connect to your network, your wireless adapter’s software will scan the area for available networks and then display a list of networks. If you don’t see your own list in this network, you may have disabled the router’s SSID (Service Set Identifier) feature, which broadcasts the SSID to local wireless adapters. Disabling the SSID broadcast is a common security method, as it effectively stealths your network, making it that much harder for would-be hackers to spot. The good news is that your adapter doesn’t need to see the SSID to connect to your router. Your adapter’s software includes a manual connection feature that lets you enter your network’s information, including the SSID (which means that you’ll need to know your router’s SSID refer to the router’s firmware to find it). Once you enter the appropriate SSID and encryption information, you’ll be able to connect to your router without any trouble.

Basic Troubleshooting Dial-up Modems

Think of your dial-up modem as your computer’s link to the outside world. It’s a slow, noisy device, but it gives you access to millions of Web sites, email, and all the marvels of the Internet when it’s working. When it’s not, a modem can be as much fun as a dentist’s drill. To fix it, you first need to gather some basic information about the modem you have. Nearly all analog modems (as opposed to cable and DSL [Digital Subscriber Line] modems) are internal. Just look for the phone jack on the back or the side of your PC, and you’ve found your modem. You can find out the manufacturer and model number by looking in the Windows Device Manager.

In Windows XP, click Start, then right-click the My Computer icon. Choose Properties, click the Hardware tab, then click the Device Manager button. Now click the plus sign next to Modems to see each modem installed on your system. If you want more information, right-click your modem and choose Properties. If you don’t find what you need here, you can always check your modem’s or your PC’s users guide and packaging, where you’ll get a complete list of tech specs. Find The Culprit You also need to know if the problem is your modem or something else that’s keeping you from connecting to the Internet. Plenty of problems can keep your computer from getting online, including your phone line itself. When you pick up your phone, do you hear static, hissing, or crackling? It’s called “line noise,” and it can prevent modems from connecting or keeping a connection active. (We’ll discuss line noise in more depth below.) Bad weather can also give your modem the blues, because rain and excessive humidity can introduce noise into an otherwise normal phone line. Adapters, line splitters, and cable extenders can do the same. Have you tried a different phone jack? If you can keep a connection on one jack but not another, there’s a good chance the problem is the jack itself, or frayed wires inside it. Try removing the phone jack’s wall plate and looking inside; if you see exposed copper or old, decaying plastic, you may have found the root of your connection woes. Even software can prevent you from getting online, or staying online once you’ve established a connection some software, such as Microsoft Outlook and Outlook Express, can disconnect your call after you send and receive email. In Outlook, click Tools, Options, Mail Setup, and uncheck the box marked Hang Up When Finished With A Manual Send/Receive. You should also consult your firewall’s users guide for issues that mask themselves as modem problems.

Problem: I can’t get the modem to connect.

Solution: Let’s start with the basics. Does your modem have the most up-to-date software, including drivers and firmware? Drivers are programs that let your modem communicate with your system. Firmware is software that resides on the modem itself and governs how the device acts. Both can be flashed that is, updated with a download from the manufacturer’s Web site. So before you do anything else, find a computer with an active Internet connection, get online, download an update if one exists, and copy it to a floppy diskette or burn it to a CD. The Web site should tell you how to install it. If your modem starts a call and only gets halfway through the handshake the loud, high-pitched noise that indicates your modem is connecting to a computer on the other end of the line—open the Device Manager and click the plus sign next to the word Modems, then right-click the modem you’re using and choose Properties. Click the Advanced tab, and then click the Change Default Preferences button. Set the number in the Cancel The Call If Not Connected Within box to 180 or even 240 seconds (the default setting is 60). Click OK twice to return to the Device Manager, then close the Device Manager and try to connect again. Still no luck? Sometimes it helps to add special commands to your modem’s initialization string (a special set of numbers and letters that tell the modem how to connect to a computer on the other end of the call). The commands you’ll add are text strings themselves, such as S95=1+MS=11 or &KO. To find them, check the Web site of your modem’s manufacturer or search the large database at www .ModemHelp.org for your modem’s make and model.

When you’ve found the string you’d like to try, first open the Device Manager, right-click your modem, choose Properties, and click the Advanced tab. Enter your commands in the box named Extra Initialization Commands and try to connect again. If that fails, line noise or faulty hardware in the modem could be to blame. There’s no fix for faulty hardware; only a replacement modem will do. If you checked for line noise before getting started, keep in mind that modems can detect far more noise than the human ear. Call your phone company and tell them you think you have a noise problem that’s preventing your modem from connecting; they can test the line from their office or send a specialist to your house to tweak line settings such as gain control that is, how much their equipment boosts your phone line’s signal, adding noise in the process.

Problem: The modem connects, then drops the call.

Solution 1: If you can get a connection but can’t keep it, try everything in the step above, as it applies to this problem, too. Remember that certain software (email programs are constant offenders) can disconnect your call after performing key functions. If your call disconnects after 10, 20, or 30 minutes, call your ISP (Internet service provider) and ask if they use a heartbeat message for incoming modem calls. A heartbeat is a small signal sent from the ISP’s server to your computer, to see if your machine is still active. If not, the ISP will disconnect you, to keep its lines open and save money. You can also download freeware or shareware that sends regular data packets to your ISP to defeat heartbeat systems. One well-known program for this is Stay Live 2000 (www.gregory braun.com/StayLive.html).

Solution 2: Do you have call waiting? If so, incoming calls may force your modem to drop a connection. Your phone company can tell you how to disable call waiting prior to placing a modem call; often, it’s as simple as pressing #43# on your phone.

Solution 3: If that fails to work, you should turn off your modem’s data compression feature. Open the Device Manager, right-click your modem, choose Properties, then click the Advanced Tab and the Change Default Preferences button. In the Data Connection Preferences section, set the Data Compression menu to Disabled, then click OK twice to return to the Control Panel. Close it, reboot your system, and try your connection again.

Solution 4: If the problem continues, try connecting at a lower speed. The higher your connection speed, the less stable your call. To change your connection speed, open the Device Manager, right-click your modem, choose Properties, then click the Advanced Tab and the Change Default Preferences button. In the Data Connection Preferences section, set the Port Speed to a lower number and try to reconnect. Repeat the process if the problem persists, choosing a lower number each time. You can also click the Advanced Port Settings button on the Advanced tab and set both the Receive and Transmit buffers to their lowest options. If that fails to work, uncheck the Use FIFO Buffers option and try to reconnect. If your modem continues to drop calls, call your ISP’s help desk or the support line at your modem’s manufacturer.

Problem: The modem’s download speed is extremely slow.

Solution: Does your connection slow to a crawl? Are you a year older when a page loads? If so, remember that analog modems aren’t the fastest connections around. DSL and cable boast speeds up to 50 times faster, and sometimes more. What’s more, even a 56K modem won’t connect at 56K. Speeds in the 30 to 50Kbps (kilobits per second) range are far more common, given problems with phone lines, line noise, and modems themselves. In fact, when computer and modem makers say “56K,” what they mean is “56K under ideal conditions that don’t exist outside our labs.” Problems that keep your connection from achieving its fastest speed include your distance from the phone company’s switching station and whether your neighborhood or apartment building has a concentrator (a device that converts analog phone lines into digital signals). Last, your DNS (Domain Name System) and DUN (dial-up networking) settings can add molasses to your modem. Rather than tweak them yourself, it’s best to call your ISP’s help desk, explain the problem, and ask them for guidance, as the settings they recommend may depend on the configuration of their internal systems.

Problem: My modem’s “handshake” process goes on and on and on but never connects.
Solution: The handshake the loud, high-pitched noise that indicates your modem is connecting to another computer is a key step in the connection process. It helps your modem identify connection settings and error correction rates (error correction lets your modem deal with a change in the quality of the phone line’s signal without disconnecting the call). There are two types of error correction: hardware and software, of which hardware is far and away the best. Check your modem’s users guide to see which type of error correction you have. If it’s software, consider buying a different modem, as software-based error correction can slow down data rates drastically. If your modem’s error correction feature is hardware-based, update your firmware using the directions outlined above. Old firmware is a common cause of long handshakes.

Problem: When I try to connect, I’m told there’s no dial tone.

Solution: Have you checked the phone line itself? If your phones get a dial tone but your modem doesn’t, check your modem’s connection to the wall jack. Make sure it’s tight. If you have an external modem, check your modem’s power cable and power supply. If they all check out, you may have too much line noise in your connection, or your modem itself may need to be replaced.

Problem: When I try to connect, I see a message that says “A dial-up connection could not be established” or “The protocol is not configured.”

Solution:
You may have a problem with your network protocols. A protocol is simply a convention used to govern the connection between devices. Common protocol names are TCP/IP (Transmission Control Protocol/Internet Protocol), IPX/SPX (Internet work Packet Exchange/ Sequenced Packet Exchange), and Client for Microsoft Networks. Different ISPs use a different blend of protocols to let your modem connect to their machines; if you receive an error message that mentions protocols, call your ISP’s help desk to see which protocols they use, then turn off extra protocols that can interfere with a connection. (Often, your ISP won’t need the IPX/SPX protocol, which Windows turns on by default.) To turn off a protocol, click Start, Control Panel. Double-click the Network Connections icon and right click your modem’s dial-up connection. Choose Properties from the context menu. In the section named Use These Components With this Connection, click the Networking tab and uncheck the box next to any protocol you don’t want. If you need to add a protocol, click the Add button and select your protocol type from the list. Then follow the prompts to add it to your system. If all else fails, call your ISP’s help desk again and report the problem in detail. Often they’re a better source of advice than your modem’s manufacturer because they deal with modem problems day in, day out, all year long. With some luck you’ll get your problem fixed and be surfing in no time.

Basic Troubleshooting NETWORK COMPONENTS

Cable Modems Broadband access has become so ubiquitous that you can get this high-speed ’Net connection almost everywhere. Most users rely on a cable modem or a DSL (Digital Subscriber Line) modem for obtaining this fast connection, and these modems are almost always external. That means that these modems will take up some extra desk space, but it also makes it easier to find out what’s wrong and troubleshoot the devices. Cable Internet access typically offers transfer speeds of 1Mbps (megabit per second) or more that’s at least 20 times faster than the speediest dial-up modem. As their name implies, cable modems connect to the same coaxial cable that brings you your TV signal. Most of them then connect to your computer either via an Ethernet or a USB connection. On The Outside You can glean a lot of information about your cable modem just by looking at it. For example, the manufacturer name and model number will be on the device somewhere, usually on a sticker on the back. This can come in handy when you’re searching online for updates or troubleshooting help. The front of the cable modem usually features a series of indicator lights; the most commonly used ones say Power, Cable, Data, Ethernet, and USB.

The Cable light might also be called an Online light on some modems, and the Data light is sometimes divided into two lights for uploads and downloads. These LEDs (light-emitting diodes) can also be quite helpful when you’re troubleshooting as they will flash (or not flash) differently as a way of delivering error messages. The rear of the cable modem will have ports for the coaxial cable, a power supply, and Ethernet and USB cables. You’ll also often find a reset button more on that later. When your cable modem is working as it should, most of the front lights will be illuminated. Either the Ethernet or USB light should be off, depending on which connection was used to hook the cable modem up to your PC. The Power light should naturally be glowing steadily as should the Cable light, which indicates you have a connection to your Internet service provider. The Data light or the upload/download lights will flash depending on your traffic. Even if you’re not actively browsing the Web or downloading a file, these lights may flash as an application on your computer might be sending small bits of data to a Web site or the cable provider might be broadcasting data across the network. Most of the time, this is innocent background noise, but make sure that you haven’t been infected by a virus by keeping your antivirus software up-to-date. (Ironically, antivirus programs are also applications that will sometimes take part in this background “chatter.”) Problem Solving OK, now that you know what your cable modem should be doing when it’s working properly, let’s talk about some scenarios where everything is not going quite as smoothly. Having an always-on connection usually means you’ll never have to worry about your Internet connection. But as anyone who’s ever had a broadband connection knows, “always on” can also mean “sometimes off.” Before you call your cable guy or gal, there are a number of do-it-yourself fixes you can try to keep your cable modem and broadband connection working at top speed.

Problem: My cable modem doesn’t have a connection to the Internet.
Solution: The first thing you should check when your cable modem connection goes down is whether or not your television is working. Because the coaxial cable is bringing both the TV and Internet signals down the same pipe to your home, turning on your cable TV is a quick and easy way to make sure there’s not a major problem with your cable provider. If your cable television is working, then you’ll want to check all the connections to and from your cable modem to make sure that a cable hasn’t been accidentally unplugged or loosened. The indicator lights can give you some clues about which cables to check. If all the lights are on and all the cables are snugly affixed, reboot your PC. This simple act can solve a good chunk of computer problems all on its own. If this doesn’t help, you can also reset the modem at the same time. Resetting the modem is easy if there’s a reset button (usually you just hold it down for five seconds or so, or use a paper clip to press it if it’s a recessed reset button), but you may want to follow these steps to ensure a proper “hard” reset. First, unplug the power cord from the back of the modem. Next, unplug the connection to your PC, either USB or Ethernet. Then, wait a couple of minutes. You can reboot your PC again during this time just to ensure you’re working with a clean slate. Finally, reconnect the power cord and PC connection. You’ll need to wait a minute or two while the cable modem re-establishes communication with your provider and your PC, but this step often does the trick when your connection is down. If you still don’t have a connection to the Internet, you’ll need to call your provider to find out what’s going on. Often, it’ll have a voice menu letting you check on service in your area or telling you about current connection problems.

Problem: I can’t get my new cable modem to work.

Solution: Many cable service providers let you save an installation fee if you set up your cable modem yourself. Because it’s an external installation, even a computer novice can usually handle it smoothly. But there are problems you may run into during installation. If you can’t get your new cable modem up and running, make sure all the cable connections are tight. For example, make sure the Ethernet cord is snapped into the modem all the way (you’ll hear a snap), and that the coaxial cable is tightened securely. Reboot your system and reset the modem. Even if you’re doing the modem installation yourself, you may need to call your cable service provider during the process. They’ll need the serial number and MAC address number of your specific cable modem so it is allowed to sync up with their network.

Problem: My cable access is slow.

Solution: When cable modems were first introduced, the biggest criticism of cable Internet access was that you would share a connection with your neighbors. So theoretically, if all of your neighbors were online at the same time, you’d face a huge slowdown. This limitation has pretty much been overcome, but it’s still not uncharacteristic to see slowdowns during peak Internet usage time, such as the late afternoon and early evening when kids are home from school and adults are home from work. If you’re seeing slowdowns during other times of the day, however, it’s something that needs to be addressed. First, check your speed with an online test site such as www.bandwidthplace.com /speedtest or www.speakeasy.net /speedtest. Some of these sites also have comparative information so you can see how your Internet speed stands up to typical cable modem access in your area. If your cable access is slower than average, check with your provider. It may have different tiers of access and you might be signed up for the lowest one (but even the lowest cable modem tier should be plenty fast for browsing the Web and light online gaming). If your connection is really slow, you can try resetting your modem by following the directions above. If you’re still having serious slowdowns at odd times, talk to your Internet service provider. It may need to replace your cable modem or external wiring.

Problem: My cable connection keeps going in and out.

Solution: If your cable modem is having problems maintaining a constant connection to the Internet, it could be because the signal isn’t strong enough. If you have a splitter on the coaxial cable line (a y-shaped device used to connect two cables to one main cable line), this could be weakening the signal. Make sure that your cable modem has a dedicated coaxial line. Also, you’ll want to recheck all the connections to and from your modem and make sure that every cord is attached snugly. And it never hurts to reset the modem and reboot your computer. But if this intermittent connection goes on too long, you’ll need to contact your service provider. If the cable signal in the room where you have your cable modem isn’t strong enough, your service provider can add a signal booster that will beef it up so it’s strong enough for highspeed data transfer.

Problem: I’m afraid of getting hacked. How can I protect my Internet connection?

Solution: Cable modem connections, like other always-on broadband connections, are vulnerable to outside attacks. While these are fairly rare for most users, it’s still good to protect yourself when you have broadband access. First of all, make sure you’re running a software firewall. This application will prevent unwanted users from accessing your system. Windows XP has a firewall built in, so make sure it’s up and running. You can access it in the Control Panel by selecting Network and Internet Connections and then Windows Firewall (in the Classic view of the Control Panel, Windows Firewall is its own icon). If you’re not running WinXP, Zone Alarm is an excellent and free firewall available at www .zonelabs.com. You’ll also want to make sure that you don’t have File and Print Sharing turned on if you’re not sharing files or printers over a network. In Windows 2000/XP, open the Control Panel (Start, Control Panel) and then click Network and Internet Connections and then Network Connections (if you’re in Classic view, just double-click Network Connections). Right-click the Local Area Connection icon and select Properties from the pop-up menu. In the window that appears, uncheck the box in front of File and Printer Sharing for Microsoft Networks and then click OK. You should also have an antivirus application running to prevent infection or Trojan horse attacks. If you have antivirus software and your computer is acting suspiciously, run a full system scan to see if you’ve been infected. If you don’t currently have antivirus software installed, Grisoft’s AVG is an excellent and also free program available at www.grisoft.com.

Problem: My wireless network isn’t working through my cable modem.

Solution: A broadband connection such as cable is excellent for multiple computers connected to a wireless network. But it’s not uncommon for secondary PCs on a Wi-Fi network to have access problems while your main computer is still able to access the Internet through the cable modem. Although this isn’t a problem with your cable modem per se, you can often fix this problem by resetting your cable modem. If that doesn’t work, you’ll also want to reset your wireless router and any wireless adapters you’re using on other PCs in your home. This means rebooting all your notebook computers and desktops connected to the network, as well as unplugging the power from your wireless router and plugging it back in (or pressing the reset button if your router has one). It may take a few minutes for all your wireless equipment to reset all the connections, but this will fix most wireless network problems. Hopefully, our solutions to these problem scenarios can save you some lengthy phone calls with your cable service provider. It’s always better if you can troubleshoot a PC problem yourself. You save time and you always learn something in the process.